Le Marche – The Real Italy: Food, Wine, Beaches, Towns

There’s a part of Italy that still feels untouched. A region where you can indulge in fantastic food, wine, beaches, and hilltop towns without jostling for space with tour groups. It’s called Le Marche, and it’s this part of Italy Nikki Mattei has called home for seven years. In an article for One Planet Journey, she takes you through rolling hills, mountain trails and quiet villages to show you what deep travel looks like in this often-overlooked region. Nikki shares the places she explored before ever recommending them to guests at her eco-retreat, inspiring you to experience Le Marche, Italy, in the most meaningful way possible.

LE MARCHE – DEEP TRAVEL IN THE REAL ITALY 

Le Marche is a region in central Italy on the Adriatic coast, virtually on the opposite side of Tuscany. In fact, Le Marche has often been called “Tuscany’s younger sister”. But it has as much to offer, if not more.

If you’re looking for a place that offers all the delights of “la dolce vita”, then Le Marche won’t disappoint. You’ll discover authentic slow food, DOC award-winning wines, majestic mountains, blue-flag beaches and a vibrant cultural heritage. Without the crowds and the hefty price tag that usually follows.

I’m a Brit who moved to this special region in late 2017. My Irish husband and I chose this part of Italy for all the aforementioned reasons. We ran a conscious luxury rental for 7 years and, of course, we had to experience everything we recommended to our guests for ourselves! Consequently, in this article I’ll share all the deep travel experiences Le Marche has in store for you.

A REGION OF EXQUISITE BEAUTY

We’ve all seen the iconic images of Italy with villas perched on hilltops reached via a cypress-lined road. When you come to Le Marche, I promise you’ll be stunned by the landscapes here. Since living in Italy, I’ve travelled to many other parts of the country, 

The landscape covers three distinct areas: the mountains, the hills and the coast. You can have the best of all worlds and choose your accommodation based on your preference. Wherever you stay, you’ll be able to experience all three landscapes.

The Sibillini Mountains National Park 

This mountain range is part of the Apennines which form the “spine” of Italy. It contains some of the most wild and undiscovered places, comprising several peaks around 2000 metres above sea level. One of them is Mount Sibilla, which is named after the mythical fairy or enchantress who appears in both Arthurian legend and Italian folklore.

If you’re into active holidays, you can hike or mountain bike following the well-marked trails. We partnered with a trained guide when we ran our short-term rental and my husband joined on many of the hikes. The orchids will amaze you, together with other rare species growing in the wild. My husband ran a landscape business when we lived in the UK and came away impressed by the plants which he would’ve paid a lot for in a nursery! 

If walking is not your style, you can follow the circular driving route, starting from charming mountain villages like Amandola and Sarnano and ending up at Lake Fiastra and the ski resort of Bolognola. Take a stop en route for a stroll around some of the bewitching medieval spots such as Montemonaco or Montefortino. You’ll always find a welcoming eatery with authentic, locally produced mountain fare such as sheep and goats’ cheeses, mushrooms, truffles, lentil soup, and polenta. 

The mountains are equally beautiful in all seasons, from the snowy peaks of winter to the wild-flower covered meadows of spring. During the week in particular, you can walk for hours without meeting another person, accompanied only by birdsong.

A patchwork of rolling hills in Le Marche, Italy

We lived about 30 minutes from the coast and had 45 minutes to the mountains. The perfect combination. Here you have the backdrop of the Sibillini mountains set against soft rolling hills covered with a patchwork of olive groves, vineyards and fruit trees. The industrious “marchigiani” (locals) still have a thriving agricultural legacy of small farmers. They’ll literally cultivate the steepest piece of land. Seeing caterpillar tractors hanging on to a frighteningly steep slope will astonish you.

From many of the medieval hilltop towns, scattered across this part of the region, you will have uninterrupted views down to the sea. Expect cobbled streets and beautiful churches. Many a time have we entered an insignificant-looking church only to see the most spectacular frescoes. Most of these villages also boast small, lavishly decorated theatres which still stage plays and events.

Blue-flag beaches in Le Marche

The Adriatic coastline, known for its clean beaches and shallow waters near the coast, is perfect for children. Here you can find beach clubs with loungers and umbrellas for rent, restaurants and changing facilities. There are also public free beaches if you prefer. The Italian way of life revolves around social interaction and food. So, they will always leave the beach for a civilised lunch at the club. The prices are affordable and the chalet restaurants feature the freshest fish and seafood from sea bass to calamari and spaghetti vongole.

The most beautiful part of the coastline in Le Marche is undoubtedly the Conero peninsula near Ancona. Here the mountains plunge into the sea with turquoise waters, which could be mistaken for the Caribbean. One of our favourite days out is to go to Numana for morning coffee and a stroll through the narrow streets lined with colourful houses, followed by lunch literally on the beach at La Paranza in Sirolo. This is an area that gets busy in the summer, particularly in August when the Italians usually take their holiday.

THE LARDER OF ITALY – Food in Le Marche 

Le Marche, often described as the “larder of Italy”, has an abundance of fresh produce and authentic dishes. The food here is simple and showcases ingredients of the highest quality.

Each town or village has its own speciality, showcased in local food festivals called “sagre”. During most months of the year, you’ll be able to take part in some truly immersive experiences focused on food. It might be “vincisgrassi”, similar to lasagna but without the white sauce. Or a particular pasta shape like strozzapreti, which means “strangle the priest”! This’ll be your chance to eat on long trestle tables, accompanied by traditional music or dancing to live bands who play both Italian and British/American classics. The perfect way to live like a local.

For vegetarians and vegans, you’ll always have pasta options and restaurants don’t mind making up something special for you. Many of the bakeries feature breads made from ancient grains like “senatore cappelli” or “gran saraceno” (buckwheat), which are easier to digest. Also, we eat a lot of farro pasta which is a bit like spelt. If, like me, you choose organic food, you’ll find plenty of small shops which sell organic dry goods, fruit and vegetables, dairy products and drinks. 

You’re spoilt for choice when eating out. There is so much on offer and we’ve only scratched the surface in seven years. From the beach club fish restaurants along the coast to inland restaurants with vaulted ceilings steeped in history. And, of course, there’s no shortage of the most wonderful gelato (ice cream).

THE UNDISCOVERED WINES OF ITALY

Le Marche is not well-known for its wines. My husband once went to the food hall at Selfridges in London and asked if they had any Le Marche pecorino wines. The sales guy had not even heard of the region. However, this means that you’re in for a treat when you come here.

We had the fortune of having vineyards on our land, run by a neighbouring local family, the Vitali. The family has a viticulture history of over 50 years and today they combine tradition with technological innovations. They have a selection of DOC award-winning white, red and sparkling wines. The grapes they cultivate are Pecorino, Sangiovese, Passerina and Montepulciano. They follow low-impact methods which tie in with our principles of organic living. One of the fun aspects of this approach is that we used to hear the sound of munching sheep every Christmas as we enjoyed lunch on our terrace. The sheep acted as lawnmowers as well as fertilisers.

Virtually all our guests attended a wine-tasting following a tour of the cantina. The tastings included a wide selection of wines, accompanied by locally produced cheeses, cold meats, and vegetarian options. Those who came by car usually went home loaded with boxes of wine!

RICH AND VIBRANT CULTURE in Le Marche 

I’ve heard it said that Le Marche spends more on culture and heritage than any other region. And I can certainly believe that. Of course, we don’t have the world-famous cities of Rome, Florence or Venice. But neither do we have the crowds. 

Ascoli Piceno 

Older than Rome, this ancient city features a travertine main piazza, and a café called Caffe Meletti frequented by Ernest Hemingway and famous for its aniseed liquor. The highlight for us every year is the “Quintana” which starts with a procession of the different districts in medieval costume. This ends in the arena with the “Quintana” itself, which features a jousting competition on horseback.

Fermo 

We’ve recently moved nearer the coast and our local town is Fermo. Another ancient city with a beautiful central square and an atmospheric antiques market every Thursday evening in August. There are cultural events throughout the year and my diary is already full. It has a “palio” with a historical parade, followed by a thrilling bare-back horse race around the ramparts of the city. This event remains one of my most vivid memories. I always feel transported to another age, a really moving experience.

Urbino

This imposing city is the birthplace of Italian renaissance painter, Raphael or Raffaello as the Italians say. It’s best known for the Ducal Palace (Palazzo Ducale) built by the Duke Federico da Montefeltro in the 1400s. It houses the National Gallery of Le Marche and has UNESCO World Heritage status. The gallery is home to Raphael’s painting of “La Muta” (The Mute), which has a similar feel to the “Mona Lisa” by Leonardo da Vinci.

HOW TO GET TO LE MARCHE, Italy

Le Marche is accessible via road, rail and air, and has a port in Ancona with access from Croatia, the rest of the Balkan peninsula, and Greece.

By air 

Ancona, in the north of Le Marche, has a delightfully small and relaxed airport which is served by a number of low-cost airlines like Ryanair, Volotea, Wizz Air as well as Lufthansa. Routes and destinations are growing as the region becomes more accessible.

Other airport options include Rimini in Emilia-Romagna to the north, Perugia in Umbria in the west, as well as Pescara in Abruzzo to the south.

For other airlines like British Airways, Bologna and Rome airports are both within three to three and half hour’s drive. Many of our guests flew into Rome and took advantage of a couple of nights in the Eternal City before driving over to Le Marche.

By road 

Le Marche is an easy journey by car from Northern Europe with usually a more relaxed journey once you get on to the A14 Adriatic motorway which goes from Bologna all the way down the Adriatic coast. There’s a good network of EV charging stations and even our tiny little village had 2 charging points.

By rail 

An increasing number of travellers have discovered train travel as a meaningful travel experience. The train journey becomes part of your holiday and is more comfortable and fun, particularly if you’re travelling with children. There are various routes you can take, and the return of the high-speed trains from Paris to Milan has facilitated this. From Milan, your journey to Le Marche will go via Bologna to whichever is your nearest stop on the Adriatic coast.

LE MARCHE – THE ESSENCE OF DEEP TRAVEL 

There’s so much more I could write about Le Marche with my years living here. I do hope that I’ve given you a feel for this special region and if you’re looking for a deep and immersive Italian experience, this is the region for you. You’ll enjoy the best that Italy offers without the crowds and the inflated prices that go with overtourism. 

As I’ve described, there are areas and accommodation to suit all types of travellers. From those looking for close-to-nature hiking holidays in the mountains, rest and relaxation in the countryside, or new cultural surprises in the ancient cities. Le Marche really is the “true” Italy.

Have you been to Le Marche in Italy? Which towns did you visit? Let us know in the comments. Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.