Bermuda Day – A Colourful Celebration of the Island’s Traditions

In this personal firsthand account for One Planet Journey, Ali Hochberg takes us deep into the heart of Bermuda Day. This is the island’s most cherished celebration of identity, history, and community. With over a decade of personal experience living in Bermuda, Ali guides us through the colour, cuisine, and cultural significance, complete with tips on how to make the most out of this unique local holiday.

“Girl, you gotta come back hur and taste the mac ‘n’ cheese so we can decide whose is de bess, mines or Auntie’s.” 

On Bermuda Day, in downtown Hamilton, the island’s capital, I snapped pictures I hoped would capture the excitement, colour, and essence of the holiday. On a remote island in the Atlantic with over 400 years of history, this one day brings together generations of Bermudians to celebrate the rich culture and enduring traditions. 

From competitive running and cycling events to more inclusive “fun runs”. A full-length parade with moving floats, drum squads, and dance squads clad in a dazzling array of colourful, handcrafted outfits – that’s Bermuda Day. And yet, somehow, that barely scratches the surface. It’s full of events, for sure, but it also bears the history of how an island reclaimed a colonial holiday to celebrate its people and their legacy. 

All of it combines to make Bermuda Day one of the best times to visit the island and experience it on a more personal, meaningful level. I hope that you will read this and eagerly check your calendar to see if Bermuda fits into your schedule of deep travel pursuits.

Bermuda Day as an Immersive Travel Experience

I have lived here as an expat for nearly 14 years. It’s the longest I’ve ever lived in any one place. Therefore, I can say without hesitation that Bermuda has so much more to offer than a quick weekend getaway. For deep travellers looking to connect more intentionally with a destination, understand its heritage, and engage with the people who call it home, Bermuda hits the mark. 

Planning a deep travel exploration centred around Bermuda Day allows travellers to savour the 53.2 km2 (20.6 sq. mi) island at a leisurely pace. You will also feel welcomed into a celebration of the island’s distinctive spirit. Because on Bermuda Day – everyone is an Onion! (That’s a good thing!)

“Onion” is a nickname embraced by native Bermudians and derived from the island’s history of growing and selling onions during the 1800s and 1900s, particularly for export to the U.S. They still grow onions, but mostly for the local market. Speaking for myself, the appearance of local onions, stripped of their outer skin and bundled together in groups of three or four, is a highly anticipated part of the spring agricultural harvest.

Now, about that mac ‘n’ cheese…

It Wouldn’t be Bermuda Day Without Food

For many families, a large part of Bermuda Day revolves around food. They gather, often across multiple generations, and enjoy homemade dishes throughout the day’s festivities. Early in the morning, Bermudians set up tents and chairs, hauling out wagons or inflatable swimming tubes. Before lunchtime, they make preparations in anticipation of a casual, multi-course meal that will evolve into a long afternoon of snacking. 

Sidewalks quickly resemble family cookouts, complete with tables topped with crockpots. Pans covered in aluminum foil, showing early evidence of attempts to peek at the contents, sitting next to bowls of green salad, and casserole dishes. At least half guaranteed to contain mac ‘n’ cheese. This is in addition to ice chests filled with marinated meat or fresh fish ready to pop on the grill. Furthermore, you see grocery bags overflowing with chips and dips, and beverage coolers full of rum swizzle or dark ‘n’ stormy – both considered Bermuda’s national drinks.

Now, past noon, people made lunch preparations so everything could be in place by the time the parade started at 1:30pm. Within this short time window, I grabbed a few shots of the “quintessential” Bermuda Day plate of food. This includes fried chicken, cassava pie (a sweet and savoury dish with a dense base of grated cassava, a starchy root vegetable), green salad, potato salad, peas and rice, wahoo nuggets, and mac ‘n’ cheese. Give or take a few dishes, such as fish chowder and collard greens.

My Bermuda Day Dilemma

I had just gotten the perfect shot, gushed over the food (in Bermudian, to comment that something is delicious, you say, “that looks/tastes well”). I headed toward my next photo subject when I heard sis call out: “Girl, you gotta come back hur and taste the mac ‘n’ cheese so we can decide whose is de bess, mines or Auntie’s.” 

In 14 years, I’ve experienced two topics that cause significant rivalries among family members in Bermuda. Cricket and food. And by food, I mean who makes the best. In no particular order, the dishes causing the most ruckus include potato salad, hot cross buns (this debate happens primarily during the week leading up to Good Friday and Easter), mac ‘n’ cheese, the traditional fish sandwich, and rum swizzle. 

Now, there are few things in Bermuda that I don’t want to get caught in the middle of. Having to place the deciding vote in a family cook-off is definitely in my top three. It’s a lose-lose proposition, and no one comes out happy.

The current situation only got worse, though, because someone in the adjoining tent heard the conversation. A man saw the camera in my hand, and said, “You judgin dat dere, you judgin’ arrybody’s.” With a sweeping motion, he pulled back the blue tarp separating the tents to reveal no fewer than seven glass jugs of homemade swizzle, each with a set of tasting cups. 

I was in deep. As much as I love homemade swizzle, no universe existed in which I could honourably judge this contest and still remain coherent enough to capture well-framed, focused photographs for the next four hours. 

Saved by a Bermudian Tradition

But then I heard it – a sharp whistle command followed by drums, the distinct sounds of Bermuda’s iconic Gombeys. Gombey stems from an African word for ‘rhythm’. These dancers, with their bright costumes, have cultural roots since the early 1800s. The traditional Bermuda Gombey costume consists of a painted full-face mask, long-sleeved white shirt, an apron or skirt, fringed pants, a tall headdress with peacock feathers, and possibly a cape, all decorated with tassels, mirrors, bells, embroidery, and glitter.

“Y’all – I gotta go!” I said, holding up my camera. “Gombeys!” 

Fortunately, there is an island-wide understanding about the importance of documenting Gombeys, and both parties quickly shooed me away. But not before Auntie pressed a foil-covered plate of food at me. “You need to keep that energy up nahw.”

I gave her a gesture that was half-hug, half-shoulder-squeeze. “I’m good, Auntie, I promise.” 

Her mac ‘n’ cheese looked good, though…

A Quick Aside: the Island’s Bermuda-ful Dialect 

From the moment I moved to Bermuda, its rich customs and everyday charms combined to give the island its distinctive character. But what fascinated me most was the dialect. More than a way of speaking, it shapes the very fabric and identity of Bermudian culture. 

Just as African American Vernacular English (AAVE) has its own vocabulary and pronunciation, the Bermudian dialect combines words, phrases, and even accents that vary across the island. The result is an unmistakable manner of speaking. Bermudians celebrate it in music, on clothing and jewellery, and in local memes and political satire. There is even an entire website dedicated to “Bermewjan Verds,” including their correct pronunciations and proper usages. 

Picking up the dialect 

I will be the first to admit that, after 14 years, there are definitely some Bermudian words that have crept into my vocabulary. Usually I don’t notice until my husband or son points it out. I might comment that “ace girl” (either a good female friend or a young woman) was “full hot” (very drunk) at a party. Sometimes I’ll complain about being “vext” (very annoyed, possibly to the point of being angry) by someone’s behaviour. Or because a coworker is “micin” (daydreaming or not paying attention) during an important meeting.

The ones I use most frequently are probably “bermp-bermp” (an imitation of an air horn, used to celebrate something). Or “bie” (a word with multiple meanings depending on context, but I tend to say it when someone’s mate didn’t act appropriately: “Ay, ya bie dun show up a mass.”) 

I couldn’t write honestly about my time in Bermuda, especially when highlighting the truly special experience of Bermuda Day, without including a nod to the island’s captivating dialect. 

Beyond the food, rich traditions, and proud celebration of the island’s dialect, Bermuda Day has another unique feature: its history. 

The History of Bermuda Day

Today, the island celebrates Bermuda Day – the signature event of Heritage Month – on the fourth Friday in May. Like many things on the island, there’s a story behind this.

The holiday was originally proclaimed as ‘Empire Day’ in 1902 to honour Queen Victoria’s birthday on May 24. 

By the 1950s, the idea of British imperialism lost its shine, particularly among British Overseas Territories, a group that still includes Bermuda. The British rebranded the holiday, first as ‘British Commonwealth Day’ in 1958 and then ‘Commonwealth Day’ in 1966. 

In 1979, Bermuda declared May as Heritage Month (as a way to increase opportunities for Bermudians to come together as a community) and celebrated the first Bermuda Day on May 24, 1979. A parade debuted as an integral part of the day’s festivities along with the Half Marathon Derby, which honoured its 70th anniversary that same year. 

In 2017, the government moved Bermuda Day to the last Friday in May to boost tourism and reduce the number of locals who extended the holiday into a four-day weekend. After considering public feedback, the Government tabled legislation in 2019 declaring Bermuda Day to be celebrated on the Friday before the final Monday in May, or the fourth Friday in May. 

Bermuda Day: A Sporting Good Time 

In 2012, less than a year after I’d moved to the island, I signed up to run the Half Marathon Derby. It marked my first experience with Bermuda Day. At that time, everyone I knew, primarily people in my running group, called it “May 24th.” 

For me, that was the name of the holiday, and it consisted solely of the most punishing, hilly, brutally hot and humid, 20-kilometre (13.1 mile) race I’d ever completed. As with most runners on May 24, I crossed the finish line, vowed never to run the race again, and somehow signed up for it the following year. And again, and again.

Historically, the course started in Somerset (“up-de-country”) on the west end of the island. Since 2015, the start of the race alternates between Somerset and St. George’s (“dahn-de-country” or, if you live there like I do, “God’s country”) on the east end of the island. Both routes take runners through downtown Hamilton along Front Street during the final 5k (3.1 miles).

Trust me when I say that neither course is easy. But regardless of the starting point, you have what feels like the entire population of Bermuda clapping and cheering in support. They raise homemade signs, give high fives, hold out bowls of candy or freshly cut fruit. Some even run alongside you for a bit, others offering you a few sips of swizzle if you’re looking particularly grim toward the end! It’s a small island half marathon with the crowd energy of the Boston or New York City Marathon.

If You Can’t Run, Ride

Despite its history, the Half Marathon Derby isn’t the event that kicks off Bermuda Day.

That honour goes to two road cycling races: the Sinclair Packwood Memorial Race and Youth Classic. For nearly a decade, they prohibited cyclists from having an official competitive race due to the leisurely procession of events following the Half Marathon Derby. However, after years of lobbying by Bermuda’s elite cyclists, led prominently by Sinclair Packwood, parade authorities allowed the inclusion of a cycling race beginning in 1987. 

Officials renamed the event to honour Packwood, a two-time Heritage Race winner, after his unexpected passing in 1998. Today, the Sinclair Packwood Memorial Race is one of the most prestigious events on the island’s annual competitive racing circuit. 

As with the Half Marathon Derby, these races follow a route that runs along Front Street, albeit a bit faster, with cyclists zooming by spectators and rows of pastel-coloured buildings at speeds over 25 kilometres/hour (15 miles/hour).

The Secret Sport of Bermuda Day: Securing a Good Viewing Location

If you haven’t noticed a recurring theme, Front Street is a hub of action during Bermuda Day, and everyone is keen to claim a prime viewing location. The art of securing one of these spots, however, is almost a sport unto itself. 

A week or two in advance of Bermuda Day, you’ll start noticing subtle little signs on the sidewalks and curbs along Front Street. Most are strips of sturdy silver duct tape; others are narrower strips of blue painter’s tape. All will bear the hastily handwritten surname of a local family, however.

These strips of tape mark off areas of the curb and sidewalk, quietly claiming the spaces where families will set up tents, chairs, coolers, and tables on Bermuda Day morning. Many of the strips feature two surnames, and it is not unusual to hear that families have celebrated the holiday side by side for decades.

In a sign of how respectful Bermuda’s culture is – particularly when it comes to long-standing traditions – these easily removed, temporary markers stay in place until the day of the event. If any unclaimed spaces remain on Bermuda Day, people are welcome to set up a chair, pop in to take pictures, or sit on the curb and watch for a while – just don’t block the view of elders or little kids. 

The Bermuda Day Parade

Since its inception, the Bermuda Day Parade has grown to become a nearly four-hour-long procession. It’s rich in colourful floats, local dance squads, festooned motorcades highlighting the work of local charities, majorettes and drum corps, local DJs, and – of course – Gombeys. This year, over 60 groups took part, including five grand marshals and seven Gombey troupes.

What makes the Bermuda Day Parade truly special is how Bermudians took an event intended to honour their own heritage, and actively prioritised inclusivity by celebrating other cultures on the island. They integrated Portuguese, Filipino, Azorean, and Jamaican cultures into an island-wide celebration of unity and resilience. Bermuda Day is an example of what can happen when people come together with the goal of improving their community and sharing long-standing traditions. 

This year, as I ran up and down Front Street, weaving in and out of performers, kneeling down to find a different angle, and asking people to pose for shots, I realised something. There’s no “boo-ing” of anyone, no heckling of any performances, and no sense of an imposing security presence – just an entire city street filled with joyous celebration. 

I’m lucky enough to experience this every year. 

Now I invite you to include Bermuda, and particularly the Bermuda Day holiday, on your itinerary of destinations to visit for an exceptional deep travel experience. One that offers rich insights into the island’s social and ecological history, a storied past of cultural integration and revival, decadent and innovative cuisines, and warm people who are eager to share this with you, if given the time.

Tips for How to Make the Most of Your Bermuda Day Experience 

Greetings 

Say hello to everyone! Bermuda has a reputation for hospitality, and visitors should reflect this back. You’ll have a more authentic deep travel experience if you let go of your inhibitions and settle into the Bermudian spirit of saying “Good morning” or “Good afternoon” to everyone you see. It ranges from people you pass on the street to employees in retail stores. Perhaps it might seem awkward at first, but it soon becomes second nature. It makes you feel good when you brighten someone’s day just by greeting them with a warm smile.

Conversations

To fully appreciate the spirit of Bermuda’s warm and welcoming atmosphere, strike up conversations with people, even if you don’t know them. If you’re dining at a restaurant, use the opportunity when you first sit down to ask your server how their day is going. If you’ve planned a deep travel experience around Bermuda Day, ask locals what their plans are for the holiday weekend. Bermuda is, at its core, a storytelling culture, and being willing to listen and share experiences is one of the best ways to create authentic, personal connections. 

Tipping

Keep in mind that Bermuda has a tipping culture. When dining out, gratuity usually comes included, but it’s always a good idea to double-check your bill – and if you’re unsure, don’t hesitate to ask. You can leave an additional tip if you feel the service was exceptional. But that is at your discretion and not required. Tipping is also customary for taxi drivers (10-15%), hotel porters (10-15%), and grocery baggers ($0.50-$1.00 per bag). On busy holidays or weekend nights, bartenders appreciate it, too.

Local Advice

The island may be small, but there is a lot to explore. If you let the hotel concierge or the owner of your guest house know what your interests are, they will have plenty of recommendations. There are also many local taxi drivers who double as tour guides. have a wealth of knowledge about the island’s history, ecology, and points of interest. Or if you’re feeling adventurous, you can always just ask around. Bermudians never shy away from sharing their opinion on what is “de best” of anything, and that is a guaranteed way to start a conversation.

Have you been to similar holidays like Bermuda Day? Let us know in the comments. Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.