A Sleeper Revival in Europe – Your Guide to Night Trains
Carla Hyenne takes the night train from Munich to Venice after interviewing the leader of European night trains, ÖBB, the Austrian Federal Railways. One Planet Journey readers get the latest insights and tips on how to maximise their European sleeper experience. What explains the resurgence and is it as romantic as history indicates? Why choose night trains? What are the benefits and what does the future hold?
European Night Trains – A Deeper Way of Travelling
There’s an undeniable romance to travelling by night trains in Europe. Picture settling into your cabin as the landscape glides by, falling asleep to the hum of the rails. Then you wake up in time to enjoy breakfast before stepping onto the platform at your destination. Rested, refreshed, and ready for adventure through the magic of the night train.
After decades of decline, night trains are experiencing a revival in Europe. Once beloved for their convenience and efficiency, European sleeper trains took a backseat when budget airlines became affordable alternatives. But, the story didn’t end there.
In recent years, travellers have rethought how they undertake their journeys. With a growing awareness of environmental footprints and a desire for more meaningful experiences, many are turning to night trains as a sustainable and enriching alternative. For deep travellers, this mode of travel perfectly aligns with a commitment to slowing down, connecting with local cultures, and reducing the impact on the planet.
Leading the resurgence of night trains in Europe is Austria’s Federal Railways, ÖBB, with their Nightjet service. Since launching in 2016, the Nightjet has expanded to over twenty routes, linking iconic destinations like Rome and Hamburg or Paris and Vienna. All while offering the charm of sleeper cabins and the convenience of overnight travel.
To delve deeper into the night train phenomenon, we spoke with Daniel Pinka, Press Officer from ÖBB, who shares the rich history of the Nightjet and what lies ahead. We also recount our own European sleeper train experience on the charming and nostalgic journey from Munich to Venice.
A Brief History of Night Trains in Europe
The night train started as luxury travel in the 1800s, with opulent private wagons and staff to attend to your every need. Think sumptuous rococo decor and fine dining cars, where the elite travelled in style.
Eventually, train operators popularised the European sleeper, and it fast became the best way to cover long distances. It afforded comfortable cabins and a good meal in the dining car. Anyone from the sole business person to families riding the train for work or a holiday.
“Night trains have been the backbone of cross-border mobility in Europe in the first decades of the 20th century. Also during the 1970s and 1980s, Europe had a strong night train network, connecting countries behind the iron curtain and Central Europe,” says ÖBB representative Mr Pinka.
Among the iconic lines is, of course, the Orient Express, a Belgian-operated train travelling from Paris to Istanbul and rendered infamous in Agatha Christie’s novel. Or, the Train Bleu, taking passengers from the north of France, south to the Riviera and the Nord Express, connecting Paris to Russia.
An unceremonial demise
When commercial flights boomed at the turn of the 21st century, people preferred air travel which promised a cheaper, faster and more modern way to get to your destination. Soon enough, night train ridership fell to unprofitable numbers, and rail companies like the German and Spanish national operators had to reduce or close their night operations altogether.
Night trains didn’t completely disappear, though. In Eastern Europe countries like Slovakia, Hungary and Romania kept popular lines operating even if only seasonally. But rather than being a common mode of travel, the night train mostly lingered in our imaginations as an artefact of a bygone era.
Night Trains Return to the European Tracks
2016 turned out to be a turning point for European night trains. ÖBB launched their Nightjet service and started operating routes previously served by German rail company Deutsche Bahn. With their modern accommodation wagons, ÖBB doubled their passengers in the first three years of operation, proving the potential for night trains in Europe.
Their success spurred other countries to follow suit with plans for night trains of their own. Switzerland, Sweden, Denmark, France and the UK, amongst others, all have announced or started implementing a night train service.
The increase in interest is also due to travellers becoming more aware of the impact their lifestyle has on the environment. As people rethink their travel patterns, they find trains meeting their needs.
“We see huge demand for our Nightjets,” says Mr Pinka, who explains that ÖBB is focusing on increasing the capacity and the comfort of the trains. “With the latest generation Nightjet, we can offer the most modern night train in the world to our customers with a new level of comfort and privacy.”
The Future of Night Trains
With the pressure of finding climate positive solutions, European policy-makers look for alternatives to air travel which could help the EU reach carbon neutrality. This presents an opportunity for night trains, with them recognised as the most eco-friendly solution. For those who want to have an affordable and sustainable way to travel, the return of the European sleeper trains is good news.
In the years to come, rail companies hope to see changes in regulation which make night trains the best option for cross-continental trips. Mr Pinka says that “as the railway sector, we demand fairness and concrete measures from EU and national lawmakers”. This includes “[reducing] track access charges for night trains, and [introducing] a special night segment on lower costs.” New regulation would help trains compete with low-cost airlines, who benefit from significant advantages such as exemptions from jet fuel tax.
Why Choose the Night Train?
It’s easy to understand the environmental benefits of train travel, but if it takes two hours to fly from Brussels to Vienna, compared to fifteen on the night train, why should you opt for the ladder?
You can’t reduce the comparison only to travel time. For a two-hour flight, you need to factor in the time and cost to get to the airport, wait in line, and pass security. Then there is a wait at the gate, boarding, and upon arrival, you need to collect your luggage and find transportation to the city centre.
Train stations are almost always centrally located, which means they’re linked to public transport. In addition, there is no need to be there hours in advance; thirty minutes before departure is more than enough.
Then, there is the convenience of leaving in the evening and arriving early in the morning on a European sleeper train. You don’t waste day time travelling, and you also save a night in a hotel. And once you arrive, you’re rested and have the entire day in front of you.
Finally, and most importantly, there is the adventure and intrigue of the night train. With transport and accommodation in one, they are a world of their own. As passengers fall asleep and others hop on, you can’t help but wonder about the stories of the people and places coming and going outside your cabin. The landscapes are also a sight to behold. You might wake up to find the train moving at a surprisingly slow pace, rolling through dark and sleeping towns. Another time, you are passing through picturesque valleys and mountain villages at full speed.
Riding ÖBB’s Nightjet From Munich to Venice
Are you intrigued by the European night trains, and considering them for your next trip? If so, here is what you can expect on the Nightjet heading from Munich, Germany to Venice, Italy.
The Nightjet stands at platform 14 at Munich’s Hauptbahnhof. It’s 22h45, and we are looking for sleeper wagon 276. On the train, a hostess greets us and then shows the way to our two-person cabin. Small but cosy. We tuck our suitcases under the bed and begin exploring.
There are blankets and pillows, and a cabinet in the corner with a sink and mirror. Our ticket says “Nightjet inkl. Frühstück” (Nightjet incl. Breakfast), so there is a food form for us to fill out. Coffee and bread with butter and jam for me.
Right before departure, the staff comes to collect our IDs for the passport control between Germany and Italy. No need to wake up at one in the morning when the train crosses the border.
Off We Go
At 23h20 sharp, the Nightjet is underway. The crew makes a trilingual announcement on the loudspeaker: once each in German, Italian and English. I think it’s a nice ode to the cultural diversity of the region, and highlights the fact that we will cross these two countries tonight.
After the initial excitement, we make our beds, close the curtains, and allow the humming of the train to lull us to sleep.
Throughout the night, I wake up multiple times, curious to see where we are. Sometimes, the train is running full-speed, and it’s pitch black outside. On other occasions, we linger on the platform in a town I don’t know. Night trains tend to stop for longer periods, because the point isn’t to arrive as fast as possible – but at a convenient hour.
The last time I wake up, I open the curtains and I’m greeted by a bright orange sunrise reflected on a lake. I alert my friend to share the moment and, within a minute, the landscape is gone. We are in a tunnel crossing through a mountain.
That’s the beauty of the night train: you will see unexpected sights, lost between mountains, as the train forges ahead.
Breakfast is served. Coffee, bread and butter, as I ordered. With half an hour left before our arrival in Venice, I freshen up, get dressed, and gather my things.
Right on time at 8h34, we roll into Venezia Santa Lucia station. We step off, ready to start our day with a fresh Italian espresso.
European Night Train Adventures
As deep travellers, we are always on the lookout for meaningful and unique things to do. We want to move away from the masses and discover parts of the world that we wouldn’t experience otherwise. The point isn’t to see as much as possible, but to appreciate the journey and vibe with a place.
When you take the night train, you can expect nothing less. On your way from Innsbruck to Rome, you will pass by Vipiteno. Did you know about this picturesque mountain village? When you ride through Switzerland, you might go through Landquart. Have you ever considered exploring the hiking trails of the Graubünden Alps?
On your next night train journey, be on the lookout for places you haven’t explored and even consider hopping off at an unexpected destination. With the exciting Nightjet developments and the new European sleeper lines expected to open, there is bound to be a spot for you!
Have you taken the night train in Europe? Do you have any tips to share with us? Let us know in the comment section! Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.
Are there any cabins with wc’s?
Hey Frances!
Yes, there are two types of sleeper cabins that include a private toilet: the Sleeping Car Comfort Plus has a bathroom that include a sink, shower (with shower gel and towels!) and toilet; the Sleeping Car Comfort has a sink and toilet.
I didn’t travel in a cabin with a bathroom and I used the shared ones in my wagon. They were always clean and refilled with soap and paper towels.