The Best Madeira Hiking and Levada Walks: A Deep Travel Guide
In this immersive guide to hiking in Madeira, One Planet Journey’s Chiara Crisafulli brings a deeply personal lens to Portugal’s lush subtropical island complete with the tips you need for successful hiking. From misty mountain trails to cliffside levadas, Chiara explores how Madeira’s natural beauty, spirited culture, and resilient communities come together in one of Europe’s most rewarding deep travel destinations for walks.
Locals have always referred to Madeira as special and distinct from the mainland. Although I come from Sicily, I lived in Portugal for seven years, and, while I immediately understood the distinction, I did not expect the richness of the region’s character to have such an impact on me.
During my last visit, I arrived without plans. With southern Europe gripped by winter, I stayed for seven weeks in this humid, subtropical weather. The truth is, though, I jumped at the opportunity to fly to Madeira. Every time the aeroplane doors opened, the heat and fragrance of the lush vegetation overwhelmed my senses. I soon nicknamed this paradise “The Little Asia of Europe”.
Helberto Helder, a Madeira-born poet, wrote: “Nature has no soul: it is the soul”. After visiting this island, his words ring even truer. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or want to immerse yourself in a deep and meaningful travel experience, Madeira will surprise you every visit.
In this article, I’ll share some of the best hiking in Madeira together with tips on how to explore this beautiful region more meaningfully. Ready? Vamos!
A Deep Guide to the Best Hiking in Madeira
Madeira’s typical levada walks create a man-made irrigation network that spans around 1,400 km. Operating since the 16th century, these narrow channels carry water along Madeira’s trails. Following the northern wetter areas and heading to the drier southern regions, they bring water to the village gardens.
There are 30 official hiking paths marked as PR (Pequenas Rotas, meaning “short routes”). The signs use yellow or red to indicate correct or incorrect trails, as well as direction. None are longer than 30 km.
Cabo Girão
From Funchal’s main bus station on Avenida do Mar, catch the Rodoeste Bus Number 7 or 142 to reach Cabo Girão. To best understand the geography of the island’s South Coast, I suggest starting here. A dramatic turn in the landscape opens to an ocean view and the parish of the Câmara dos Lobos. Rising 580 m above sea level, Cabo Girão is one of Europe’s tallest sea cliffs and features a glass platform. From here, enjoy the vista or hike towards Ribeira Brava as I cover in the next section.
Levada Do Norte – Ribeira Brava
From Cabo Girão, I headed northeast until the village of Quinta Grande in Boa Morte. This 8.9 km hiking trail stretches along the sunny side of the island, is well-maintained and perfect for walking on rainy days. I love that the sea is always visible, as are parts of Funchal and Câmara de Lobos.
Some hikers stop to talk and tell me they completed the route in under 2 hours. However, I prefer to take my time, pausing to admire the scenery. Near the end, Boa Morte’s terraced fields come into view. Used for growing banana trees, grapevines, and other crops, they climb the hillside using an agricultural technique popular in rural areas, known as “poio”.
Monte – Levada Dos Tornos
This 4 km route is quick and quite manageable. It follows the Levada Dos Tornos for about 1.5 hours and is a fantastic way to discover countryside villages and residential areas. Another good reason? The ride on the cable car to Monte! It’s a 15-minute adventure with an elevation of 560 metres where you get a bird’s-eye view of Funchal. Find the starting point at the base station, near the Botanical Garden. The trail makes its way through the Babosas neighbourhood and over a small bridge that crosses the João Gomes River. A heady scent of eucalyptus and laurel trees follow you upwards.
The path narrows after Curral Dos Romeros. Lining the route, you have one-storey houses, abandoned buildings, avocado trees, goats, chickens, and the blue flower agapanthus. Finally, I stopped at the Jasmin Tea House to enjoy a piece of Bolo De Mel, the traditional Madeiran honey cake.
Queimadas Forest – Caldeirão Verde Waterfall (PR 9)
On my first visit to the island, locals told me about the many waterfalls. How could I resist? I decided on the PR 9 trail, which stretches for 11 km and crosses the UNESCO-protected Laurisilva Forest. Locate the entrance on the island’s north side, next to a car park. It starts out wide and spacious, with mossy laurel trees casting shadows on the levada stream. Two hours later, mainly on flat terrain, I reached the end.
The path has three straightforward tunnels, small water cascading down rocky walls, with ferns and lichen covering most of the steep surfaces. Eventually, the waterfall comes into view when I emerge from the forest. At this point, I hike back to the car, although it is possible to carry on to the “Caldeirão do Inferno”. I recommend going in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid crowding on the narrower sections.
Circular Hike – Achada do Teixeira – Pico Ruivo (PR 1.2)
Pico Ruivo rises 1,862 meters above sea level. It is Madeira’s highest peak with a steady 250-meter incline. With that said, of all the trails, it is the easiest to summit. It’s a quick climb with no dangerous drop-offs. However, at this elevation and depending on the time of day, the weather can change quickly. Walking in the clouds, up in the mountains, or sunshine makes a big difference in temperature. Hikers should plan accordingly, and above all, avoid heading out in too much rain or wind.
Near the summit, at the 2.5 km mark, stairs lead to the top with a 360-degree view that makes you feel you are on top of the world. Casa de Abrigo do Pico Ruivo is below and is available for cover if the weather turns. From the peak, the walk back to the car park takes about 45 minutes.
Levada do Alecrim (PR 6.2 + 6.3)
Another popular scenic hike on Madeira is the Levada do Alecrim trail. Easy, short, and flat, it has become trendy among travelling families in the past couple of years. To avoid the crowds, I advise another early start.
The starting point is the “Parque de Estacionamento Rabaçal” car park along the ER110 at Km 15. From here, head up the path, making sure not to follow the Levada Das 25 Fontes trail, as it branches off in a different direction. Laurel trees, lush moss, little streams, and stone steps create a scenic path that leads to the Dona Beja waterfall. Together with the lagoon, this is the busiest part of the hike.
However, we’re not done. Turn right on the PR 6.3 Lagoa Do Vento route for one km. Follow the path down more stairs until you arrive at another clear lagoon, a waterfall, and a cave, all worthy of closer inspection. To return to the car park, look for the sign towards Casa Do Rabaçal. Round-trip, this trail takes 3-4 hours and is about 8 km in total.
Walks from Funchal – Caminho Velho Do Rancho
After walking so many humid routes shaded by trees, I long for ocean views. More than anything, I want the freedom of walking without checking maps or remembering directions. Simply put, I miss getting lost. This is how I came to love what I stumbled on, a section of a historical path.
I spent almost four hours walking with my jaw gaping. This walk is spectacular. However, because there isn’t a defined route available, and I don’t want people losing their way, here is the route I took:
Start at the Botanical Garden and follow Caminho do Meio until you reach Caminho do Terço
Take the rural path until Caminho do Vasco Gil
Continue towards Caminho do Velho Rancho (there are signs)
Descend through Caminho do Rancho Road (Rua Caminho do Rancho)
Finish at the viewpoint Miradouro do Rancho.
Komoot or AllTrails Apps work well if you feel the need for a map in hand, but it’s not essential. Aside from the views, it is intriguing to learn how Madeirans build their homes and live, allowing me to reflect on their resilience and how they blend into an uneven landscape with such grace. They certainly mastered the art of living on inclines!
Why Choose Madeira?
With its favourable climate, mostly warm temperatures and sunny days, the island of Madeira is perfect for those seeking outdoor adventure. It begins with the thrill of landing on a small airstrip in the middle of the ocean. Here, the landscape feels surreal: from clouds brushing tall peaks, to volcanic cliffs that drop dramatically into the Atlantic.
Christiano Ronaldo’s fame and legacy attract many football fans. Every elder I interact with seems to have a relative who has played football with the superstar. In June 2025, Madeira also hosted the Women’s National Team’s group of the Women’s Nations League stage, in a match against Belgium at the Estádio do Marítimo, in Funchal. Sport is alive and well in Madeira.
The New Year’s Eve fireworks of 2006/2007 earned a Guinness World Record for the largest fireworks display in the world. Today, it continues to be a popular event for Portuguese locals and travellers from all over the world.
Some of my favourite memories are of walks in the evening that start in the capital, Funchal, and make their way to the eastern hills of São Gonçalo. I delight in following the quiet, winding cobblestone streets bordered by banana trees and their leaves. Tiny lights, like lanterns, shape hidden houses in the darkness into dramatic shapes. Only the occasional bark of a dog interrupts the silence that feels almost spiritual. Every night, this atmosphere makes me feel I have stepped into a fairy tale.
Cuisine and Culture: Immersive Experiences in Madeira, Portugal
Despite welcoming more than 2 million visitors a year, it’s still possible to find authenticity in Madeira. In Funchal, the Labour Market is a showcase of local exotic fruit. The maracujá banana is my favourite. It’s a hybrid between a banana and a passionfruit, with the tartness mixing with the sweetness, and it is unlike any other fruit I have tasted. A must-try when you are here.
Santa Catarina Park offers riviera-like views of docks, boats, and cruise ships lining the shore. If you enjoy the early morning, make your way to the nearby Viewpoint of Nazareth on the Bay of Funchal to see the sunrise. For sunsets, my favourite spot is on the southwest coast, in Porta Do Sol. The rugged cliffs, inside the tunnels, or on the unique stone bridge, all provide an unforgettable end to your day!
Close by, the village of Campanário is home to one of the finest local wineries on the island, the Enoteca João da Venda, which is worth a visit. However, on Madeira, the star of all drinks is a spirit made with lemon and honey called poncha. Try it at the Poncha Bar Tibúrcio; the owner will likely serve it with small savoury snacks (dentinho) or lupini beans (tremoços).
Madeira offers at least 10 gardens with many types of trees and flowers. My favourites are orchids, camellias, and the “Pride of Madeira”, the Bird of Paradise (strelitzia). The abundance of flora is apparent everywhere, especially the laurel trees. The Laurisilva Forest is one of the largest surviving examples of its kind in the world, and represents a thriving part of the island’s identity, enjoying UNESCO’s protected designation since 1999.
Best Hiking in Madeira Tips
Gear
I strongly recommend having the right clothing and gear for hiking. Madeira is no exception. Due to shifting elevation, use waterproof shoes, preferably not sandals, as trails can get muddy and slippery if a sudden downpour happens. The same goes for clothing, and you get bonus points if they repel rain and moisture.
I always bring breathable materials that dry fast and avoid cotton (it breathes but takes forever to dry). Dress in layers if you hike in the higher sections, as it gets cold quickly, especially if you’re damp. Make sure you have a torch or headlamp. Some routes have tunnels, and it can be very dark even during the daytime. Finally, I never forget to carry sunscreen, mosquito repellent, and a swimsuit. Many times, one or two extra pieces of dry clothing have come in handy as well. Of course, hike with plenty of water and snacks!
On the trails
As of October 2024, hiking on Madeira involves a fee, and not paying may incur a fine. Watch for slippery surfaces and loose rocks. When taking a photo, avoid standing on unstable edges as greenery can sometimes hide steep drops, making it feel less dangerous than it is. As mentioned, when you’re climbing to a peak, check the weather before you go. Often, Funchal is sunny and warm, but the mountains might be foggy or raining.
A quaint custom, locals tend to write walking directions on walls where signs are not available. Occasionally, you may see stands close to homes offering water, bananas, or snacks. If you take something, it’s respectful and kind to leave some money inside the jars as a ‘thank you’.
Finally, not all trails have nearby public transport. Therefore, renting a car on Madeira is always a wise choice. Keep in mind, drivers travel at high speeds, often coming within inches of buildings. I remember using the local bus once, and it was terrifying!
Best Months for Hiking in Madeira
April, May, and June are the best months to visit Madeira, but September and October can be lovely too, since they rarely get a lot of rain. I would avoid hiking from December until the end of March. Regardless of the season, keep in mind that occasional downpours may occur.
Are you a seasoned hiker? What are your best hiking tips for Madeira? Let us know in the comments. Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.
