Beyond the Palio: History, Culture, and Food in Siena, Tuscany
The historical centre of Siena is best known for the Palio – a horse race held twice a year that dates back centuries. During her excursion in Tuscany, One Planet Journey’s Carolina Fabricius rambled through Siena, breathing in its medieval history and culture while indulging in local food delicacies.
Deep Travel in Tuscany
Let me paint you a picture… We begin at a distance, with green hills in layers on the horizon. The iconic cypress trees proudly stretch towards the sky. Houses with terracotta coloured roofs stand faithfully on their spots, guarding the growing fields. The light is soft and the air warm but with a refreshing breeze. We have enjoyed a meal containing wild boar ragù, rich in its flavour, and the cicadas are, as always, making their presence known with their acoustic (and rather loud) abilities. Yes, we are in Tuscany. To be specific, Siena. During my temporary relocation to Northern Italy, I have journeyed through this country with a mindset suited for deep travel. A sort of immersion with the intent to understand the soul of the places I visited, including its people, culture, and food. Time has come for a deep dive into what makes Siena the wonderful city it is.
After a train ride of 1 hour and 30 minutes from a teeming summer Florence, crowded with tourists as usual, we reach Siena. This is a peak-season trip indeed, but there is a certain calmness here. It’s like people came for a relaxing stroll. Though Siena has plenty of life, it is not a nightlife city, which is perfect for the hopes and expectations of this journey. Our day started in Mantova, where we took an early morning Frecciarossa, the high-speed train, to Florence. A smooth ride without delays, to the surprise of my Italian friends and family.
The Siena Art Scene
This is not a first time encounter for me and Siena, but a wonderful reunion. In this picturesque medieval town, the routes of small streets wind their way from one historical spot to another. We can wander for days but still find new treasures hiding in the rustic corners. Many famous artists throughout history have come from Siena and to a large extent the city continues to breathe art, both in exhibitions and museums, as well as in production and sale. During a serendipitous moment, we discover a gallery with a sculpture that catches our eyes. It’s called Tracotanza, the artist’s daughter-in-law tells us with enthusiasm. It means strength in a positive sense, like determination.
One does not have to be eagle-eyed to see that a couple of streets are significantly more decorated than others, with detailed flags that whisper of pride. What could it be?
Palio di Siena
If I say Palio, you say… Well, there are actually numerous cities in Italy in which Palio exists, but I dare claim Siena is the most famous. We choose not to be in the city during the event, after hearing quite wild tales of what goes on during these days. However, first let’s rewind for those unfamiliar with the story.
Palio di Siena is a horse race that has taken place twice per year, in July and August, since 1701. It totals three laps around Piazza del Campo, which takes about a minute. The competitors consist of city wards called contrade. Ten contrade compete in every race, with each jockey dressed in the colours representing the specific contrada. The rivalry dates back hundreds of years, and in my mind I imagine all the possible real life Romeo and Juliet stories that must have played out through history.
Preparations & Pride
Preparing for these events is part of the culture in Siena and quite visible for visitors to experience as well, as drummers and flag throwers accompany the happening, cheering for their side. As we strolled along the streets, we saw celebrations and build-ups hinting at the importance of this occasion. With pride, the latest winner of the race has its flags decorating the neighbourhood in Siena. On one street, people hold a large feast with food, wine, and happy attendants, while on another street, they put on a drum performance for passersby.
Similar to other animal sports, the Palio generates controversy and has faced numerous criticisms, which will persist. Despite adopting measures to make it safer for the animals to compete, accidents still occur, which is impossible to ignore even as the event captivates you from a historical and cultural standpoint.
A Taste of Siena
Let’s return to Piazza del Campo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995, and the heart of the city. When not used for the Palio, it takes its role as the stunning main square of Siena. Famous for the unique shell-like shape, it has rich historical significance, exemplified by magnificent medieval buildings, including the Palazzo Pubblico (the town hall) and the Torre del Mangia, a tall, slender tower.
I would suggest using the square as a splendid arena to experience the culture, talk about history, and while doing so, sipping an aperitivo, and/or enjoying apericena for those who wish to nibble on something. For more food experiences, let us wander into the nearby smaller streets to discover what the city has to offer.
As we searched for a somewhat calmer experience outside the core of Siena, without having to walk too far, we found ourselves at restaurant Fischi per Fiaschi. In all honesty, it is a spot you might miss, as it does not look like a lot to the world when passing by. However, the creamy pasta, cooked to perfection, brought me back to the kind made at home by the hands of family in Lombardy. The presentation is rustic, as this dish is to be eaten right after leaving the stove: plate, serve, eat. No garnish. No extras. Just enjoy. And did we ever.
Siena Must-Try Food Classics
At Hotel Athena, I finally had my very own Room With a View in Tuscany. And did we make the most of it? Of course. There are moments in life when having a panoramic view next to the bedroom feels like a necessity, and this was such a moment.
In Siena it is both delicious and easy (not to mention cheap) to head down to a local food store, pick out an Italian cheese, some crackers, a beverage and fresh fruit for lunch. Of course, we also had to try the famous Panforte, purchased at Bar Caffetteria 4 Cantoni, less than 10 minutes from the hotel. This chewy cake, containing nuts, fruits and, in this case, chocolate, is a traditional Christmas dessert but you can buy it at any time of the year. And would you believe me when I say it tastes even better with a Tuscan sunset?
As we are on the topic of cheap yet delightful food, another must-try when visiting Siena is, of course, ciaccino, an authentic type of focaccia, stuffed with all types of Italian delicacies. We went back to where I had my first encounter with this delicious treat, La Piccola Ciaccineria. I should emphasise the word piccola (meaning small) since there is nowhere to sit, but guests settle on the stone steps right outside. This time, I chose the one filled with prosciutto and mozzarella, perfectly melted in the heated bread. Pure heaven.
Until We Meet Again, Siena
We often think that the closer we are to something, the better we can experience it. Although that might sometimes be true, I would claim that we also enjoy things in delightful ways when taking in perspectives from a greater distance. Part of my trip aimed to re-experience some long awaited favourites. To get one of the best views in Siena, in my humble opinion, head towards Basilica Cateriania di San Domenico. Only minutes from here, we find Ristorante San Domenico, which makes a perfect spot for one last moment to appreciate the view while enjoying a Birra Italian Grape Ale Frida, before accepting that this journey is coming to an end.
For our final meal before heading towards Florence, we knew not only where to go but what to try. It is difficult to avoid Pici Cacio e Pepe when visiting, in this case with cialda di parmigiano (a crispy parmesan wafer). Traditionally, this dish is Roman, but in Siena, they make this food specifically with pici, a long and quite thick pasta shape. The creamy sauce contains pecorino romano and black pepper, simple and delightful. We decided to spend our precious time in the heart of Siena, at Osteria Permalico, a few minutes from Piazza del Campo. The morning after, another smooth train ride took us further on our journey, though the sweet taste of Tuscany lingered – until next time, Siena.
Siena Q&A
Who would enjoy a trip to Siena?
Anyone looking for a relaxed city experience filled with art, history and great food. If you go during the Palio, the relaxation aspect is void, of course.
How do I get to siena?
Siena has a train station, from where it takes about 20-30 minutes to walk to the city centre. Purchase tickets for high-speed rail (like Frecciarossa) well in advance for a cheaper fare. For the regional trains, such as between Florence and Siena, you can buy tickets at the station. However, do not forget to validate it in a machine before departure. It will cost you a pretty penny if you do.
What are the must-see sights in Siena?
Piazza del Campo, Siena Cathedral (Duomo di Siena), Palazzo Pubblico and the Civic Museum, Basilica of San Domenico.
Use Opa Si Pass for discounts. Purchase online or by the Duomo di Siena.
What are the best areas to stay in Siena for different travellers?
Historic Centre (Centro Storico): If you want to be immersed in the heart of Siena’s history, food, and culture, staying within the ancient centre is ideal. You’ll have walking distance to major attractions like Piazza del Campo, and the Duomo.
Near the City Walls: For a quieter experience while still close to the action, this area offers a more relaxed ambience with lovely views of the Tuscan country.
Outskirts and Countryside: For those who want to enjoy the beauty of Tuscany while visiting Siena, choosing nearby rural areas is an excellent option.
What food should I try in Siena?
I would aim for Pici Cacio e pepe, the Ciaccino, Panforte, and anything with tartufo (truffle) if it is in season.
Have you been to Siena? Did you catch the Palio? Let us know in the comment section! Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.
