Cruise, Comfort, & Conservation in the Komodo Islands, Indonesia
Jennifer Lowe, an American-German sustainable tourism writer, researcher, and advisor, takes One Planet Journey readers on a cruise to the Komodo Islands, a lesser-known, but no less spectacular, corner of Indonesia. Here she discovers how an unforgettable cruising experience and an innovative reef-positive business model combine to craft the perfect voyage for deep and discerning travellers.
A New Way to Imagine a Cruise in the Komodo Islands
Does cruising among secluded islands and pristine coral reefs stir your imagination? How about a mindful and deeper travel experience that can credibly boast of not just doing less harm, but of doing good?
Look no further than Nomad Archipelago, with whom I visited Indonesia’s stunning Komodo National Park. Komodo is a UNESCO World Heritage Site comprising nearly thirty mostly uninhabited islands. We spent four days snorkelling vibrant reefs, visiting islands and beaches, and enjoying top-notch service and comfort aboard the ‘Bajau’.
Enjoy my chronicle of life during the Komodo Islands cruise, discover the beauty of these islands, and find out how this travel company lives its motto to ‘Explore with Purpose’.
A DAY IN THE (EASY) LIFE
From the moment we boarded the Komodo Islands cruise, we knew we were in for a treat. Natalia, our charming meal, drink, and cabin hostess, greeted us with freshly prepared juice. We soon learned she’d do this each time we returned from an excursion, with a different tasty concoction on every occasion.
The feel onboard is one of unpretentious, soothing comfort. After all, nature is the headline act of a Nomad Archipelago cruise. Leaving the lively home port behind, we quickly settled into a rhythm of dining, snorkelling, kayaking, walks on secluded islands, and copious amounts of doing absolutely nothing but take in the views from Bajau’s two airy decks. In the remote waters and coves that one can thankfully still find in Komodo, each refreshing breeze, each plunge into the warm waters, and each idyllic view cleanses away the stresses of everyday life.
Enter the Dragons
On day 2 we got an invitation to join in on a reef survey. Unsure of what this meant, we soon realised it involved exploring a few snorkelling sites for the first time. I felt as if I “discovered” them alongside our hosts. I wondered to myself how many (or few) human eyes have looked upon these exquisite living organisms.
We later made our way to some of the more popular sites in the park. An extraordinarily photogenic sandy islet, the aptly named Manta Point snorkel/dive site, and the most reliable place to spot Komodo’s famous “dragons”. I noted the contrast to the first days, but the majestic mantas and massive Komodo dragons made it easy to disregard a few extra humans.
A Deeply Social Cruise in the Komodo Islands
The all-Indonesian crew was without fail both exceptional and friendly. We brought a guitar and mini drum along and sat with them on the bow one evening, singing songs we all knew and sharing tunes from our respective countries. Cruisers may not normally expect to connect more deeply with their crew, but the intimate atmosphere certainly allows for it, and for me it enriched the experience.
Speaking of exceptional, let’s talk about the food! The astute chef and galley team achieved an impressive variety with each fresh and beautifully presented spread. And foodies, rejoice. Each meal came out as a mouth-wateringly delectable treat for the senses!
They sell beer and wine onboard, and in a refreshing departure from most cruises, they encourage guests to bring along whatever spirits or alcoholic beverages they enjoy.
KOMODO’S BUDDING TOURISM INDUSTRY
Tourism in Komodo remains small-scale, certainly compared to nearby Bali. But it’s growing quickly, and a handful of sights get busy at peak times. Most visitors only stay long enough to check these ‘must-see’ places off their list and move on. As a result, many Komodo cruises last just one to three days.
In contrast, Nomad Archipelago’s cruises average about six days and actively explore the park’s quiet corners. Put otherwise: when most Komodo Islands cruises zig, Nomad Archipelago’s boats (slowly) zag.
“Most of these islands, people know one place [to snorkel] and they never go to the other side,” says the company’s co-founder Jean-Michel Chalant. Nomad Archipelago does just that, exploring the other side, the other reef, the other cove.
DESIGNED FOR COMFORT, BUILT FOR SUSTAINABILITY
Both Bajau and its nearly identical sister ship Bugis maximise outdoor space and maintain a constant connection to nature. Four cabins accommodate 8-10 (Bajau) or 8-12 (Bugis) guests. Private charters are a possibility, allowing exclusivity and the option of incorporating scuba diving into the cruise.
The boats’ clever design is the brainchild of Chalant, bucking the local trend of placing cabins below deck, thereby necessitating air conditioning and separating guests from the outdoors. In contrast, Bajau’s cabins come well-ventilated, and you can see the water from your bed. Guests may also sleep above deck, and even for this self-professed night owl, waking to take in the first rays of sunrise unfolding before me was pure bliss.
Both boats prioritise environmental sustainability. For instance, by forgoing the use of masts and sails one sees on most boats in the area. Chalant clarified that the sails’ existence has a strictly aesthetic purpose. I concur, having not once seen a boat with its sails unfurled. Instead, the Bajau and Bugis utilise their rooftops for solar panels, and battery storage ensures sufficient power while at anchor. This isn’t only an eco-friendly measure; imagine looking up at the stars and hearing the lapping of water against the boat’s hull rather than the humming of a generator.
THE BEAUTY OF KOMODO, ABOVE AND UNDER THE WAVES
Komodo’s rugged landscape is sometimes dramatic; think Middle Earth meets Robinson Crusoe. I visited just as the rainy season had ended. The contrast between the green of the land, the blue sky and sea, and the black, white and even pink sands of the hundreds of beaches seemed to have reached its pinnacle.
Perhaps no spot illustrates this vibrant scene more effectively than the Padar Island viewpoint. And no time of day unleashes its magic better than sunset. You won’t be alone in this popular spot, but its exquisite beauty will move you.
There are few human settlements, but we walked through Komodo village, where the locals sell arts, crafts, t-shirts and jewellery. If you’re looking for a souvenir, this is a great place to get one. Your purchase also brings revenue to this economically disadvantaged community.
And underwater? That’s where Komodo’s beauty really astounds. To call it merely beautiful is a colossal understatement. A more accurate description would be a kaleidoscope of colour and life. When the currents for which Komodo is famous pulled us swiftly through a few snorkelling sites, it felt like riding through a stunningly curated aquarium on an invisible conveyor belt. As for the sea life, it included everything one could imagine: hard and soft corals, giant moray eels, manta rays, sea turtles, sharks, cuttlefish, nudibranchs, dragonfish, lionfish, dolphins, and reef fish in almost every colour.
THE WIDER REGION
Flores Island is the gateway to Komodo and is ripe for exploration. It’s quite large and elongated; count on approximately 17 hours’ driving time to get from one end to the other.
Labuan Bajo, the cruise’s embarkation point, is a lively and pleasant harbour town in the island’s northwest with one of Flores’ largest airports. It has few attractions but is a great place to recuperate from long-distance travel and do any necessary pre-cruise shopping.
The road east from Labuan Bajo quickly ascends to the island’s mountainous interior, a land of stunning views and inviting waterfalls. About three hours east is Ruteng, a large town with some rather unusual attractions, including its unique rice fields, which viewed from above resemble a spider’s web. Liang Bua cave is also nearby, where in 2003 they discovered a previously unknown pre-human species, nicknamed “hobbits” for their small stature but proportionally large feet.
Further east is Bajawa, with historic indigenous villages and volcanic hot springs merging with cool rivers. Then there’s Kelimutu volcano and its three crater lakes, whose waters dramatically change colour depending upon acidity levels. Larantuka, all the way on Flores’ eastern tip, has a reputation relating to its Easter celebrations; in contrast to most Indonesian provinces, Flores’ population is majority Christian.
WHERE ELSE DOES NOMAD ARCHIPELAGO CRUISE?
When Komodo’s rainy season arrives, both boats migrate north to cruising locales such as Raja Ampat and the Banggai Archipelago, where different climatic conditions prevail. Lengthier ‘repositioning’ cruises visit remote islands along the way, which Chalant described in such vivid detail that it had me daydreaming of joining them!
Nomad Archipelago’s itineraries are never rigid. “While we revisit places we’ve loved, we’re always open to new surprises,” Chalant explains. “That’s our spirit of exploration.”
A PARTNERSHIP FOR CONSERVATION
Perhaps the most unique aspect of the Nomad Archipelago’s story is its connection to conservation efforts with the NGO Blue Alliance and its tourism division BlueWild EcoVentures.
Blue Alliance formed in 2015 and manages several Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) in East Africa and Southeast Asia. When public funding did not meet its conservation objectives, they established BlueWild EcoVentures to help create and promote regenerative tourism projects in the Blue Alliance MPAs. They help secure project funding, with profits reinvested in MPA management and related projects.
“Every reef-positive business we create exists to channel its proceeds back into conservation – it’s not a sideline, it’s the purpose,” explains BlueWild EcoVenture’s Director Gary Lotter. “That’s why we’ve partnered with Nomad Archipelago. Their ‘Explore with Purpose’ ethos, low-impact design, and full commitment to funding marine and community programmes through Blue Alliance Indonesia align perfectly with our mission.”
Komodo Islands – AUTHENTICALLY DIFFERENT
A picture gradually emerged: Nomad Archipelago is not your average Komodo Islands cruise. Their approach is unmistakably distinctive from the competition and personifies the meaning of deep travel.
Chalant perhaps sums it up best: “For us, real luxury means taking your time. Going where the wind and currents lead us, to discover the authentic Indonesia.”
Have you been on a Komodo Islands cruise? Did you visit other places in Indonesia? Let us know in the comments. Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.
