Deep Travel in Nagaland, India: Beyond the Hornbill Festival
For One Planet Journey, travel journalist Subhasish Chakraborty, a native of India’s North East, takes us on a profoundly personal journey back to his roots. He delves deep into the annual Hornbill Festival, ten days of colour and celebration that draws visitors from all over the world. Nagaland is a land where ancient wisdom still reigns. Through his eyes, we also meet the tribes, discover the timeless lessons of the Morungs, and find a powerful message about a life deeply connected to culture and Mother Nature.
Immersion into India’s Nagaland
India’s remote state of Nagaland in the northeast is glowing like a star on the country’s tourism map. It’s a region blessed with nature’s bounty, where village chieftains are decision-makers, and life is a celebration.
The Nagas are a collective community of tribes, (the original headhunters) well spread out across India’s northeastern state of Nagaland. They are animists, and many tribes dwell inside dense tropical forests. The tribal diversity is astonishing, with a mind-blowing 50 languages and numerous dialectical traits.
Kohima, Dimapur and to an extent Mokokchung are the noteworthy urban agglomerations. The quintessential features of Nagaland come in the form of crested hilltop hamlets, terraced hill cultivation, its colourful festivals like the Nagaland Hornbill Festival, high-quality handloom, and handicraft heritage.
A visit to Nagaland is an assault on your senses – culturally as well as geographically. This land is an enigma not only for the outside world, but even for Indians, due largely to its remoteness and splendid isolation.
My Nagaland Connection
As a one-time native of India’s Northeast (born and raised in Assam), I got exposed to the typical “laid-back” and “happy-go-lucky” life of the region since childhood. A majority of my friends were tribals like Nagas, Mizos, Monpas, and Khasis. All of them came from unusual but fascinating cultures, particularly in their belief systems and their abiding reverence for Mother Nature.
Having spent the first thirty years of my life in the northeast of India offered me the opportunity to travel deep into the valleys, meadows, high mountain passes, forlorn hamlets, and agriculture-rich zones. It came courtesy of my late father’s government job at the Assam Department of Agriculture, which entailed travelling a lot to rural regions.
My eyes still well up when I reminisce those memories of growing up in this part of India, riding in my dad’s 4×4 car. We passed through difficult mountain terrain, breathtaking natural vistas and had wonderful times staying in forest rest houses and tea bungalows, or as honoured guests in native homes, enamoured by their warm tribal hospitality.
We left Assam for Kolkata in the late 90s. However, our love affair with the Northeast continues, and I personally make it a point to visit once every year. My last trip to Nagaland in late December was a revelation. Along with my high school buddy, we stuck to an itinerary that ensured we spent more time in Mokokchung and Longwa to soak in the pure Nagamese aura. Of course, we made it to the reverberating Nagaland Hornbill Festival, which keeps getting better each year.
Hornbill Festival – An Explosion of Naga Vibes
You can experience the annual Nagaland Hornbill Festival every year from December 1 to 10th. For the Nagas and the entire Northeast, this festival offers a peek into the myriad indigenous diversity of the region. Unlike my earlier visits to Nagaland, this time we spent the last two days at this grand festival. The buildup to the closing ceremony was absolutely out of this world. Camaraderie, paparazzi chasing celebrity guests, rock musicians arriving, and the weather gods were kind.
Kisama Heritage Village, the venue of the festival, perched beautifully on Mount Japfu, in between Phesamma and Kigwema, transports one to a fairytale world. Watching the event from your allotted seat in the traditional Naga open-air amphitheatre is mesmerising. Especially the tribal dance sequences, which are colourful, rhythmic and reverberating. The Nagas being an out-and-out warrior tribe, it isn’t surprising that their dances highlight war themes.
Fashion and Food at the Hornbill Festival
The Nagas are a flamboyantly attired tribal community, and they are stunning to look at. Men wear loincloths, popularly referred to as the “Joho,” and the women wear the “Mekhala”. They wrap themselves up in their exquisitely designed red-coloured shawls. In fact, most visitors carry a pair or two of them as souvenirs. Each individual tribe has its own distinctive Naga shawls, and I, for one, prefer the Tsungkotepsu ones made by the Ao tribe.
Try out the food courts, where a bewildering variety of tribal cuisines and gastronomic delights is yours to taste. I feasted on pork with bamboo shoots, with a dash of “Bhut Jolokia,” considered to be the world’s hottest variety of Chilli, as per the Guinness Book of Records. Apart from fish and chicken, try different meats, such as bison, deer, and wild boar. The traditional Naga drink “Zutho” made of rice beer is an absolute must.
I consider myself fortunate to have witnessed this mega festival up close and I quote the concluding address of Nagaland’s Tourism Minister, the affable Temjen Imna Along, who beautifully summed up the festival’s spirit.
“The Nagaland Hornbill Festival goes beyond cultural and tribal boundaries, uniting humanity.”
Nagaland beyond the Hornbill Festival
Vibrant Villages and Tribal Diversity
For close to a decade, I have observed the visitor trend wherein visitors from mainland India and abroad coincide their visit to Nagaland at the time of the glamorous Hornbill Festival. And who can fault them? It’s a riot of colours, offering a peek into the fascinating Naga lifestyle, culture, cuisine and music, all assembled in Kisama Village, 12 kilometres away from the capital city Kohima.
But is your trip complete after witnessing the 10-day Nagaland Hornbill Festival? My answer would be a strict no. How can you fathom the mysterious Naga lifestyle without encounters with the tribes? Without an invitation to a quintessential Naga household, experiencing firsthand their remarkable cuisine, gastronomy, grit, and determination?
In Nagaland, Mother Nature rules the show. She governs, and the tribes follow. Be prepared to leave civilisation behind, and soon a whole new world of discovery awaits. As a visitor, you stand to gain tremendously and enhance your perception of the Naga way of life by extending your itinerary beyond the Nagaland Hornbill Festival.
Nagaland Forest Ecosystem
From the moment you touch down at Dimapur Airport, the gateway to Nagaland, and drive towards Kohima, the capital city, the first thing that hits you is the fresh mountain air and the greenery. The 2-hour drive (70 kilometres) along National Highway 29 passes undulating Naga hills and picturesque villages. The roadside shops and tea shacks offer the first glimpses of the bewildering cultural diversity of Nagaland.
Nagaland is one of India’s most densely forested states, with 73% of its geographical area under forest cover. Our Naga chauffeur told us that ownership of land typically rests with the village tribal councils and clans. Protected areas and wildlife sanctuaries come under state government control. Local people involved in the management of forest resources has been a hallmark of Nagaland since ancient times.
The Naga tribe has an abiding belief that forests are God’s precious gift, preserved at any cost. No wonder that the tribes’ reverence for forests finds reflection in their folklore and spiritual beliefs. They declare proudly that forests remain sacred, not to be treated as commodities for trade and commerce.
Kohima & Beyond
In pursuit of exploring the mysterious Naga culture, most visitors leave the urban city of Kohima and travel to Mokokchung, 145 kilometres away. The journey takes approximately 4.5 hours, and the road is bumpy. But the wayside attractions are fabulous, with picturesque Naga villages spread on hilly slopes.
The tribal diversity of Nagaland is astonishingly rich with as many as 17 tribes, each one blessed with fascinating prehistoric traditions, rituals, attires and cuisines. Among them, the Ao Nagas have carved a niche for themselves, mainly in the Mokokchung area. Visiting the villages of Longkhum, Ungma, and Mopongchuket offers you a peek into their unique lifestyles.
It is advisable to opt for a homestay option in Mokokchung to savour the Nagamese hospitality. However, there is no five-star luxury here. You get basic accommodation, clean linen, toilets, and breathtaking window views.
Walking through the village alleyways reveals a way of life that’s steeped in tradition, and even the village streets are so clean. A great way to explore the hidden charms of Mokokchung’s village life is by embarking on short hikes.
The Ao Nagas have a unique methodology when it comes to solving disputes, courtesy of their village council, popularly referred to as Putu Mmenden. If you are lucky to be present on the days of judgement, you won’t stop marvelling at their justice delivery system.
The foundation of Ao Nagas rests in their typical mindset that the community is above all else. They are fiercely proud of their heritage, and the manner in which they have held on to their belief system is praiseworthy. There are several sub-clans of Ao Nagas, and each of them has its own set of customs passed down through generations.
Onward to Longwa – The Last Headhunters
A journey through bumpy mountain roads and hairpin bends to Longwa, covers a distance of 5 hr 50 min (188.8 kilometres). I’m to meet the last “headhunters” on the India-Myanmar border.
Longwa village is the bastion of the ferocious Konyak Nagas, a warrior clan, whose ancestors indulged in headhunting, even a few decades back. This is a place steeped in mystery, where one needs to plan and execute the itinerary under the supervision of a trusted tour operator, who has the logistical means and the connections to book a homestay.
Once you enter the village, which remained out of bounds for centuries, you are in one of the most dangerous terrains of India’s North East. This is also the only village in India where residents possess dual passports with Myanmar, and if your tour operator is knowledgeable, he perhaps would have booked a prior appointment with the King of Longwa, popularly referred to as the “Angh,” who rules supreme.
Konyak Customs
Once inside the King’s chamber, which is conspicuous by walls embellished with animal skulls and other hunting gadgets, a sense of speechless bewilderment gushes through your spine as the King narrates their past headhunting history, why they engaged in such acts, their folklores, legends and acts of valour.
Konyak Nagas carry headwear made of hornbill feathers and horns of wild animals. As a mark of ancestral respect, it is customary for every Konyak to carry a gun of their forefathers.
India has officially banned headhunting, and the Konyaks are gradually embracing modern education and civilisational pursuits. However, they remain steadfast in their core belief of guarding their community’s ethos – “Unity First”. They have also been very vocal on issues like safeguarding ancestral properties and cross-border barriers imposed upon them.
However, not everything is scary in Longwa village. The picture-perfect beauty of the undulating Naga Hills offers numerous vistas to appreciate natural wonders.
Naga Morungs – Ancient Dormitories, Timeless Wisdom
Most visitors come to Longwa with one idea. To have a photoshoot or endless selfies with the Konyak tribesmen, thereby missing out on the Konyak‘s dormitory system of education wherein the elders of the tribe impart life-building lessons to the younger generation through the “Morungs”.
The Morungs have played a pivotal role in preserving the fast-vanishing Naga way of life. Even today the village elders teach everything from community morals, honesty, steadfastness, and war tactics, which are life-enriching survival skills in such a hostile terrain.
For full cultural immersion, I recommend a personal visit to a traditional Naga Morung rather than a makeshift one at the annual Hornbill Festival. Nothing compares to the joy of experiencing such a life-enhancing experience and ancient system of education that has played a stellar role in shaping the past, present and future of Nagaland.
Deep Dive: Revelations from Naga Morungs – A Go-To List
Morungs are autonomous.
The age fixed for entry into a Morung is 12 years.
The Naga tribes spend their most crucial period, from childhood to adulthood, at Morungs.
Morungs, positioned at the entrance of the villages, act as self-defence units.
The log drum made of a massive tree trunk is the signature emblem of Naga Morungs.
Village elders convey social messages from the Morungs.
Each tribe has its own set of standard operating systems/modules.
Post the entry of Christian missionaries, they banned drinking.
Morungs impart both military and social education.
Naga festivals originate in Morungs.
Nagaland Travel Practicalities
With Nagaland being a remote destination, I advise discerning visitors to plan their visit months ahead. A good starting point could be the Department of Tourism, Government of Nagaland. As it is a mountain destination, there will be connectivity issues, especially during the rainy season (June to September) due to landslides. Nagaland is at its best during the winters from October to February. Temperatures range from 4 to 24 degrees Celsius.
Permits: Indians require Inner Line Permits, while foreign visitors will need to get themselves registered with the Foreigners Registration Office (FRO).
Accommodation
Do not expect high-end luxury. What is on offer are decent hotels and homestay options. It is always advisable to opt for homestay units registered with the Department of Tourism, Government of Nagaland.
Homestays offer personalised attention and a chance to savour authentic Nagamese hospitality.
There is one exceptional experiential camping operator – TUTC, who put up their luxury tents every year at Kohima from 29th Nov to 12th Dec.
Getting There
The best way to reach Nagaland is by air to Dimapur. Since the airport is small and connectivity frequency isn’t all that great, many visitors opt to fly from Delhi, Mumbai, Hyderabad, Bangalore and Kolkata to Guwhati, the capital of Assam (a neighbouring state) and drive all the way to Kohima, covering a distance of 343 kms. via National Highway 27.
Have you been to the Nagaland Hornbill Festival? Where else in India’s northeast would you like to go? Let us know in the comments. Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.
