Edinburgh: Free, Self-Guided Walking Tour of Auld Reekie
Daria Buson from One Planet Journey knows Edinburgh. Now, you can too as she guides you around Edinburgh’s best sights, streets, views, and areas of town in this free, self-guided walking tour in and around ‘Auld Reekie’. Get the backstory, the insider tips, the local lingo, and step-by-step insights, delivered with passion and humour. Skip the research, the ultimate walking tour of Edinburgh is at your fingertips.
Historical Heart of Edinburgh: The Old Town and The New Town
Built on seven hills like Rome, Edinburgh exudes a magical atmosphere similar to the Italian capital: history, architecture, nature, tradition, arts and entertainment coexist in a city that is quite difficult to describe without bias. I don’t have to be objective, though. I chose Scotland for several reasons, its capital being among the top five. For someone born and raised in the middle of the Euganean Hills in north-eastern Italy, who then moved to a flat country like Sweden, Edinburgh’s landscape makes me feel at home anytime.
In 2018, I travelled to Edinburgh for the first time. Of that 3-day trip around Auld Reekie, or “Old Smoky” – the Scots’ affectionate nickname for their capital – I remember wandering the Meadows, admiring the skyline from Calton Hill, climbing up Arthur’s Seat, and sprinting from the city centre to Portobello Beach and back through the Water of Leith Walkway to catch the sunset.
After fastening the seatbelt on the flight home, I promised myself I would return and explore the city in detail. Almost six years have passed since and I kept that promise four times. Although it hides many a secret, I aim to unravel Edinburgh’s mysteries by sharing my sustainable and self-guided travel guide with anyone eager to fall under its magic spell.
The capital of Scotland constitutes a mecca for deep travel and offers unique and unforgettable opportunities for authentic experiences. Strolling and getting lost is the best way to savour Edinburgh and its treasures, breathing in its vibrant atmosphere and ageless charm. A semi-unplanned though extensive wandering exploration of the city will leave you feeling like you’ve lived there your whole life and, trust me, you’ll want to extend your stay.
This walking tour retraces my 2018 steps, with added knowledge acquired from my later visits, and guides you through the city centre, along the river, up the hills and onto the harbour. Starting from the historical landmarks in the Old Town – the Castle, the Royal Mile, the Grassmarket – followed by the many monuments and museums scattered around the New Town, I will accompany you on the way to discover Edinburgh’s riverside gems – the Water of Leith Walkway, Dean Village, the Botanics, and Leith – and its majestic in-town natural landscapes – Calton Hill, Arthur’s Seat, Holyrood Park, and the hills – unravelling the beauty and history of magical Edinburgh.
Stravaigin through Edinburgh: An Extensive Walking Tour
Any ideal Scottish trip involves stravaigin, ‘going for a wee stroll’. Whether walking, hiking or simply wandering, Edinburgh is the ultimate city for sustainable travelling. If you don’t consider the brief journey from the airport to the centre, hopping on a bus or tram is rare. Even the furthest areas like Leith and Newhaven or Granton and Portobello Beach are more or less an hour’s walk away and by now I have perfected my self-guided walking tour to make the most out of a shorter stay. I promise that the buildings, views, parks and shores – and the warmhearted Scottish people you’ll meet on the way – will charm you so much that you won’t feel tired at all.
Edinburgh’s Historical Heart: the Old Town and the New Town
Since 1995, Edinburgh’s Old Town and New Town have been UNESCO World Heritage sites. The Old Town, the historical heart, has majestic buildings, ancient cobblestones, and mediaeval wynds while a neoclassical architectonic style, culture, arts, and entertainment characterises the New Town. Stravaigin through these streets feels like attending a history lecture in the open and brings you back in time, adding to the city’s already magical atmosphere.
The Old Town
There are plenty of areas and sights to explore in the Old Town, starting with Edinburgh Castle. Perched on an extinct volcano, Castle Rock, this stronghold has survived multiple conflicts and sieges and served as many a function. To learn more about the fascinating history of this site, make sure to pre-book your tickets online and take a guided tour to discover its significant past marked by exciting tales of kings and queens, soldiers and prisoners, hauntings and ghosts.
Stretching from the Castle to Holyrood Palace, the tourist-ridden Royal Mile is a succession of streets in the Old Town. Its name may seem self-explanatory, as it connects several landmarks to the Royal Palace of Holyroodhouse, the King’s official Scottish residence. However, I heard another interpretation of this term when I had the pleasure of meeting Fergus, a wonderful tour guide from whom I learned much about Edinburgh and Scotland. His knowledge, delivered with grand passion and mesmeric storytelling, inspired me to discover more about Scottish history, culture and traditions and explore the country’s astounding landscape.
Fergus explained that the Royal Mile measures about 1.8 km, the length of an old Scots mile. Therefore, a more generous measure than the English version, which is around 1.6 km: a fair representation of the warmer generosity of Scottish people, who “will always give you a wee bit more”, as Fergus humorously commented. I cherish many of his stories, and this funny anecdote makes me chuckle whenever I wander these streets.
As you walk down from Castlehill, you’ll step into what once was a linen market, the Lawnmarket, and get lost exploring the countless closes and alleyways reminiscent of mediaeval times – and witchcraft! If you’re interested in Edinburgh’s darkest secrets, attend a free ghost tour to hear the mysteries surrounding Thomas Weir, visit the Greyfriars Kirkyard cemetery at night and evoke “Bloody” MacKenzie, and learn about Edinburgh’s ghastly stories.
From the Lawnmarket, swing down Upper Bow and head towards Victoria Terrace, where you can admire the view over Victoria Street, a downhill crescent renowned for its colourful buildings, shops and pubs. At the end of the slope, you’ll reach the Grassmarket, a lively neighbourhood and popular destination. As Fergus explained, the far end of this area used to be pastures for livestock, then traded and sold on the spot, therefore, its appellation. They also used to hold witchery trials and executions right at the centre of this square, making it a place of gruesome entertainment.
Tucked away in the Grassmarket, the Vennel stairway offers a dramatic view of the Castle and the rock from which it arises. The ancient tenement buildings and sandstone steps offer a splendid sight at any time of the year. While in the area, I recommend visiting the National Museum of Scotland, where you can enjoy natural history, archaeology, arts and science for free. When walking back to the Royal Mile, pass through the Cowgate, a historical street on the lower level of South Bridge. Remember to look up to spot a cow figure on the walls, “The Toon Coo”. Underneath the tail of the coo, you will also find a plaque with Edinburgh’s nickname engraved on it.
Back in the heart of the Old Town, enter the majestic St. Giles’ Cathedral to admire its stained-glass windows and the Thistle Chapel, home of Scotland’s great order of chivalry. Right outside the cathedral, watch your steps not to miss the Heart of Midlothian mosaic. Don’t get disgusted if people spit on it – it’s for good luck!
The New Town
After soaking in the atmosphere of the Old Town and its mediaeval wynds, the New Town offers architectural symmetry in its elegant streets and squares. Princes Street provides a clear divide between the two sides of Edinburgh’s city centre and runs alongside Princes Street Gardens, the Scott Monument and Edinburgh Waverley Station leading up to Calton Hill.
Princes Street brims with retail stores and soulless food chains. However, if you’re not interested in this shallow travel experience, follow my advice and “meet me under Binns Clock”. Previously, people made use of this historic timepiece on the far western end of Princes Street as a romantic meeting spot when smartphones were not yet available, and has recently undergone restoration to its former glory. Every 7th and 37th minute, kilted Highland figurines march out of the clock, while the pipers play two popular Scottish tunes every half hour: a show worth catching.
From the clock, make your way to the Princes Street Gardens’ western entrance. At any point alongside the fence or inside the park, get ready to snap stunning shots of the Castle and the Old Town. If you time your visit in October or late April, the warm autumn foliage or the cherry blossoms will add to the delightful scenery. Explore the gardens at your own pace, and stop to admire the flowers, trees, and statues before passing by the “Floral Clock”, a mechanical display of flowers, and climbing the steps towards the Royal Scottish Academy and the National Galleries of Scotland.
For a bit of culture, the latter showcases an array of paintings by Scottish and international artists and temporary exhibitions for free. The Academy offers a range of activities and public displays of prominent architects and artists. Is your time limited? Take a less than 10-minute walk from The Mound, the artificial slope connecting the Old and the New Town, and you will enter another section of the Galleries, the Portrait. This overlooked gem exudes art. The palace that hosts this permanent exhibition is a great example of neo-Gothic architecture, every hall embellished with incredible sculptures. Don’t forget to look up!
On your way there, marvel at the impressive Scott Monument, Edinburgh’s iconic landmark in honour of Sir Walter Scott, a great Scottish literary figure. Right outside the monument, peer left onto Waverley Bridge and spot St. Giles’ crown steeple among the ancient rooftops of the Old Town. Regardless of the weather, it’s a classic postcard view of Edinburgh, a sight you will never forget.
The last two architectural stops worth exploring while wandering through the New Town are St Andrew Square, a green hub in the middle of the city centre, and Dundas Street, a downhill slope lined with cream-coloured Georgian buildings allowing a panoramic view over Canonmills and the Firth of Forth.
Edinburgh’s Green Heart: Calton Hill and Arthur’s Seat
As mentioned, hills characterise Edinburgh’s landscape, with slopes, steep steps, and high points adorning the entire city. In central Edinburgh, at the far eastern end of Princes Street, Calton Hill offers breathtaking views over the Old Town, New Town, Leith, Newhaven, the Firth of Forth, and its bridges but you might need to run a wee bit out of breath before that.
There are two paths leading to the top of the hill, and you should choose based on your physical condition and tiredness. If you wish to stop and snap some panoramic shots on the way up, I suggest the easier climb in front of you at the gate. It will take somewhat longer, but you can admire the cityscape at a calmer pace.
Instead, if you’re obstinate like me and want to get all your daily steps in, climb the stairs to your right and the adjacent steep slope to reach the Dugald Stewart Monument and the Nelson Monument, commemorative of Lord Nelson’s death in the Battle of Trafalgar. A few more steps uphill and the National Monument of Scotland appears in all its glory – and dishonour.
“Why?”, you might wonder. The National Monument of Scotland goes by the names ‘Edinburgh’s Disgrace’ and the ‘Pride and Poverty of us Scots’, which says a lot about this site. They erected this landmark, an imitation of the majestic Pantheon in Athens, to commemorate the Scottish soldiers and sailors who died in the Napoleonic wars. However, its construction halted due to a lack of funds. Nevertheless, this unfinished monument offers a stunning backdrop over the city and provides an ideal seat to marvel at the sunset over Auld Reekie.
Another perfect spot to catch the sunset – or sunrise, if you’re an early bird – is Arthur’s Seat, an ancient volcano and iconic peak in the heart of Holyrood Park, at the far end of the Royal Mile. Compared to Calton Hill, you will have many more miles to climb here, so I advise against being obstinate: choose the path with the most suitable difficulty and enjoy every second of your hike. When you reach the top, take a deep breath, pat yourself on the back, and admire the stunning panorama.
On your way down, roam through the park and explore its archaeological and natural beauties: forts, agricultural terraces, mediaeval ruins (St Anthony’s Chapel) and wildlife. If you’re not too tired, reach Duddingston Loch and observe the waterfowl, enter Dr Neil’s Garden, a serene oasis of green life, and wander among the tombstones behind Duddingston Kirk. From here, walk back towards the park and the city centre through the Innocent Railway trail and respective tunnel (Scotland’s oldest).
This railway was first built to deliver coal via horse-drawn carriages, therefore the adjective ‘innocent’; it then allowed the transport of passengers but fell victim to steam-powered railways and closed down at the end of the 1960s, while part of it now constitutes a scenic cycle path and walking route around the park.
A stone’s throw away from the Innocent Railway Tunnel, you’ll step into The Meadows, a large flat green space adjacent to residential areas, student accommodations and university buildings. It offers a beautiful view over Arthur’s Seat: find a bench and rest your weary legs while admiring the scenery. In spring, cherry blossoms cover the park, becoming an ideal spot for sunset picnics.
Edinburgh’s Blue Heart: The Water of Leith Walkway, Dean Village and Leith
The Water of Leith Walkway stretches about 20 km from Balerno to Leith and follows Edinburgh’s primary river until it flows into the port of Leith. There are many starting points to access the walkway: I suggest climbing down the tricky steps under Belford Bridge in the Haymarket district. It will feel like you stepped into another dimension, surrounded by vegetation, woodland and wildlife; the almost unnatural silence broken only by the powerful sound of the stream.
Follow the path for about ten minutes – less if you don’t greet the many dogs on their walkies – and you’ll come across the picturesque Dean Village, a former milling location. Soak in the tranquillity while snapping some pictures of this well-preserved historical jewel before continuing along the river, past Bell’s Brae Bridge towards the majestic Dean Bridge. Depending on the season, stop to admire the foliage on the riverbanks and breathe in the walkway’s stillness. Not too far from the bridge, you can spot St Bernard’s Well, with its recently restored mosaic ceiling and the statue of Hygeia, the goddess of health.
If you’re craving excitement, follow the river into Stockbridge, a popular district brimming with bakeries, cafés, restaurants, and charming streets like Circus Lane, its rows of old mews houses to the foreground of St Stephen’s Church. Visit this area on a Sunday, when you can shop for artisanal products and sample local foods at the market.
From Stockbridge, promenade through Rocheid Path, exit the walkway on the left to catch sight of the Stockbridge Colonies (colony houses built on eleven parallel streets) and proceed towards a favourite of mine, the Royal Botanic Garden, where you can spend hours learning about the park’s incomparable biological diversity, feeding squirrels and admiring panoramic views of Edinburgh’s skyline for free.
After a lengthy stroll in the Botanics, dive back into the walkway’s greenery and prepare for the longest portion of the path, which follows the Water of Leith along St Mark’s Park, more residential areas and another mill until you reach The Shore, the former harbour and most popular view of Leith. From the old days of docks and trade, this neighbourhood has experienced a rebirth and is now a hip and creative area offering plenty of entertainment.
When in Leith, I suggest timing your stroll to catch the sunset on the harbour in Newhaven, with the lighthouse, the Firth of Forth and its famous bridges in the backdrop. Don’t despair if you’re knackered after your hike: you can hop on the tram back to the city centre from the terminus after a well-earned portion of fish and chips.
Congratulations, you completed a 7 km walk through the heart of Edinburgh! Keep in mind that you can split the Water of Leith Walkway over several days to explore different areas and districts, and enjoy the city’s highlights at a calmer pace.
Around Edinburgh: Easy to Access Attractions
In case you’re blessed with good weather and looking for more outdoor activities to satisfy your thirst for exploration near the Scottish capital, I recommend visiting the following sights, which are both easy and sustainable to reach (by bus, train and bike or on foot) and located less than an hour away from the city centre.
Jupiter Artland
Over 100 acres of Scottish meadow turned into a contemporary art park hosting site-specific sculptures from international artists. Open 7 days a week from 10 am to 5 pm, you can reach the majestic open-air museum by bus (x27 and x23 from Edinburgh) and train (a 30-minute walk from Kirknewton station).
Hermitage of Braid, Blackford Hill and Braid Hills
Enjoy a delightful hike through a wooden glen south-west of Edinburgh, access an 18th-century house now turned into a visitor centre, climb up to Corbies Craig – a small-scale crag and tail – for a great view of the city and its coast. If you’re up for the challenge and want a 360° vantage point, hike further up to the Seven Hills Viewpoint in the Braid Hills and admire Edinburgh and the Firth of Forth from above.
Rosslyn Chapel
This ancient chapel, made even more famous by the Da Vinci Code, attracts visitors worldwide because of its craftily carved stonework, rich symbolism and mysterious allure. Before each time slot, expert guides introduce the chapel’s history, myths and theories, and guide you through all the intricate carvings. Book online and hop on bus 37 from Princes Street to discover this mystical site. Roslin Glen Nature Reserve and Roslin Glen County Park surround the chapel, both well worth a visit – and a lengthy stroll.
As you’ve understood by now, Edinburgh bewitched me, and I canny grow tired of going back to unveil more of its secrets. Travelling solo allows me to set my pace and create my itinerary, as well as encouraging me to be curious and bold. I dare chat with the locals, immersing myself in their culture and listening to their stories and tales, almost pretending I’ve lived in that place my whole life. I also challenge my health by hiking 32 km in a day, but that’s another story.
Wandering through the streets of Edinburgh, strolling through the parks, along the river leading into the harbour, and climbing up the hills in silence allows you to slow down, unwind and get lost, forging such a deep connection with this magical city and its people that it pains you to leave. I promise you’ll feel drawn to go back and explore more, just like me.
Have you been to Scotland? Which Scottish destinations do you recommend? Let us know in the comment section! Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.
