Glaciers, Towns, & Nature: A Southeast Alaska Deep Travel Guide
In this deep travel guide, Chloe Dew shares her journey through Southeast Alaska, taking One Planet Journey readers to the serene fishing village of Hoonah, the capital of Juneau, and the culturally rich town of Ketchikan. Along the way, she discovers awe-inspiring natural wonders like the Hubbard and Mendenhall Glaciers, proving that America’s last frontier is best explored with a sense of wonder.
Alaska Overlooked
Travel in the United States is typically associated with its mainland cities, national parks, beaches, and other hotspots. It is easy for the conventional tourist to focus on hitting these popular destinations and forget about other wonders beyond, such as the state of Alaska. Far northwest sits this gem of a place, largely untouched and waiting to be explored.
From its coastal villages and snow-capped mountains, to its sweeping glacial waters and teeming wildlife, the southeastern strip of Alaska offers a journey through nature and culture. I discovered a rare beauty there myself, and it’s well suited for nature-loving travellers who desire something off-the-beaten-path. So, on that note, here is my Southeast Alaska deep travel guide.
Hoonah & Whale-watching
Coastal Travel in Alaska
My route in Alaska took me to three towns, the fishing village of Hoonah coming first. Located on the southeast archipelago, this village is quaint, colourful, and tiny. Fewer than one thousand people live here. This brought a unique, serene feel to the place. Both quiet and welcoming at the same time.
I came through the Icy Strait by boat from Vancouver, Canada. It is common for travellers visiting Alaska to arrive by cruise line, which is what my group and I did. This method of transportation is ideal if you’re seeking to hit multiple coastal destinations. From prior experience, I would say Alaskan ships provide a more meaningful adventure than the typical commercialised cruise or “party boat.” It emphasises nature sightseeing, wildlife education, and preserving a peaceful atmosphere without disturbing the scenery. I would recommend travelling in the summer for the best weather (10-25℃) and views.
Hoonah Local Life and Wildlife
Overall, Hoonah is great for anyone searching to connect with Alaskan small-town life. I found the absence of distracting infrastructure to be calming and an excellent opportunity to really take in the lush mountains of Icy Strait Point. Like many fishing villages here, it has an authentic, untouched presence. It makes it easier to get to know the locals themselves.
A resident who took us out on his fishing boat, searching for whales, offered up a lot of local expertise. This allowed our group to have excellent sightings of 15 humpback whales, otters, and sea lions. I observed a strong sense of trust between him and the wildlife itself. A large group of porpoises swam with our boat for about twenty minutes, trying to keep up even as we sped away.
What a privilege to witness such a magnificent creature as the humpback, especially when it breaks the surface of the water with its spout and powerful tail. Set against the backdrop of the snowy mountains, nothing can quite capture that moment of wonder. In an instant, you wake from your reverie, reminded that you are not alone in the rippling inlet, until with the dip of a tail, the water stills to glass once again.
Our captain did a good job of viewing all these spectacles from afar without disturbing the peace. I would highly recommend local fishing boat excursions for anyone hoping to go whale-watching in a meaningful, untainted way. Other tips include exploring Hoonah from the scenic gondolas and learning about the history of salmon canning. The native Tlingit culture is also a fascinating deep dive, especially concerning the complex social structure. More on the Tlingit later.
Hubbard Glacier
By far one of the best parts of my trip to Alaska. Today, while most glaciers nowadays shrink, Hubbard Glacier grows larger every day. The runoff from the surrounding mountains slides down daily to join this 76-mile hunk of ice. I had the opportunity to observe it from our ship in Disenchantment Bay.
Lucky travellers can also watch the calving of the glacier, where large chunks break away in small avalanches. This phenomenon turned out even more stunning than usual because of our ship’s rare proximity to the site, due to perfect weather conditions.
Reverence for the Scenery
Getting up-close to a glacier is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience that instils in you a sense of reverence. The quote by poet Lisel Mueller comes to mind as I reflect now on those peaks cresting the sky: “See how heaven pulls earth into its arms.” You could practically see the hand of God pulling the mountains out of the ocean as the glacier sparkled blue between them and a million shards of ice swirled from its base.
Hiking in Juneau, Alaska
While Juneau, the capital of Alaska, is small, it is nonetheless impressive. Towering rocky mountains with wispy, cascading waterfalls surround the coastal town. You can see summits so high that they disappear above the clouds.
Juneau has many tourist shops and cafe-lined streets, but I would encourage you to seek activities beyond the busy boardwalks. For me, this took the form of a hike on the East Glacier Loop trail. Spanning the jungle-like forests and mountains just off the port, this hike offers a new glimpse at Alaskan terrain. The path, lined with vibrant green plants, also has spots with streams and waterfalls (another reason for visiting Alaska in the summer). Where else will you see both ice and tropical foliage in the same place?
Deep Dive: Things to do in Juneau
Gold: Experience Juneau’s Gold Rush history by panning for gold in a creek. “Pay dirt” guaranteed.
Mount Roberts Tramway: Ascend 1,800 feet for incredible panoramic views of Juneau, the Gastineau Channel, and the surrounding mountains.
Flightseeing Tour: A breathtaking bird’s-eye view of the Juneau Icefield and its many glaciers by helicopter or seaplane.
Bear Viewing: Fly by floatplane to nearby Admiralty to safely observe coastal brown bears feasting on salmon in their natural habitat.
Alaska State Museum: Discover the state’s rich history, art, and culture through extensive exhibits on traditions, heritage, and artifacts.
Mendenhall Glacier
One ice structure you can view from various lookouts on the Glacier Trail is Mendenhall Glacier. Unlike the Hubbard Glacier, it’s declining rapidly every year. Despite the decreasing size, Mendenhall Glacier still looks magnificent.
Our local guide, who doubled as a schoolteacher, added fresh perspective to the towns and glaciers. Walking next to him was like a history lesson with details about Juneau’s tourism scene and community life. Again, I would recommend as many locally led excursions as possible to get a taste of Alaska’s untouched sociocultural beauty.
Ketchikan: Historical Significance
Ketchikan – the last town I visited during my Alaskan adventure. A destination full of life, culture, and history. It’s made for deep travellers, with its yearly salmon run and native roots. Ketchikan displays the true heart of southeastern Alaska.
Totem Heritage Center
The Totem Heritage Center, located just beyond the main streets of Ketchikan, provides an in-depth look at Alaska’s origins. It houses totem poles, giant wooden monuments carved by native tribes. They are now a testament to the Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian peoples. Each pole tells a story and is a cultural gem for this Southeast Alaska travel guide.
I thoroughly appreciated the museum, as I felt it provided a way to uncover the voices of the forgotten. Native peoples have had a hard time throughout American history, their cultures sidelined along the way. The Totem Heritage Center opens the eyes of the traveller to this unfortunate history, but also to the bits of native ancestry that have survived. Viewing the art, mask, totem, and photography exhibits will show you how the preserved past is a gift to the future.
Creek Street
Another iconic part of Ketchikan is Creek Street, a stilted boardwalk following a stream that flows past old restaurants, shops, and houses. Ketchikan Creek has a reputation for its summer salmon runs when the fish travel upstream in droves, viewable from the paths. People worldwide widely praise Alaskan salmon for its high quality in cuisine.
Along with salmon shops, Creek Street showcases Alaskan gold jewellery, art, and a mysterious past. Almost the entire boardwalk used to be part of Ketchikan’s red-light district in the 1920s. There is a museum you can enter to learn more about this complicated part of history.
I believe Ketchikan is a meaningful destination for a traveller because it not only displays the good and the attractive, but it also uncovers the difficult periods.
Alaska travel guide – a nature lover’s dream
Throughout my trip, I kept coming back to how untouched Southeast Alaska is. So many places in the world today are ever-changing, bearing the footprint of humanity. Alaska is an exception. Travellers here can form a deep connection with the place as they dive into history and observe nature’s wonders without disturbing the serenity. When I watched the whales, it felt like looking through a one-way window into a whole new world. You experience a mind-blowing event, but to the whale, it’s just another day. They don’t even know you’re there.
Have you been to this part of the US? What would you add to the Southeast Alaska travel guide? Let us know in the comments. Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.
