Golgulsa Templestay Guide – Mindfulness in South Korea

Former Seoul resident Ingrid Boucher takes One Planet Journey readers on a spiritual journey to the ancient capital city of Gyeongju. Learn about Buddhism in South Korea, the martial art of Seonmudo, and how to get the best experience from your Golgulsa Templestay. Enjoy a full guide to mindfulness and wellness at one of South Korea’s most famous temples.

Over the past decades, our ability to connect with others through technology has increased exponentially, and yet, our inner journey seems unchecked. This has given rise to a spike in interest for wellness tourism, including yoga retreats, spas, and spiritually themed trips, where personal development and deeper travel experiences take centre stage. Places like India and Bali have become popular mindfulness destinations, but few people think of South Korea as a top choice. 

While studying in Seoul, I often barrelled through the country. Slowly, wanting to tune in with my inner-self, I looked into a unique experience: Templestay.

The History of Buddhism in South Korea

Buddhism’s roots date back to the 5th century BC in India. Its core belief relates to the notion of the endless circle of life and pain, and the teachings of Buddha to overcome the latter. In the 4th century AD, the Mahayana branch of Buddhism reached the Korean peninsula, at the time divided into three kingdoms. Through the influence of three monks coming through the Silk Road, local communities started building temples, principally in mountainous areas.

Buddhism faced challenges and conflicts in Korea. Growing Neo-Confucianism and the Japanese invasions challenged its standing and active practice. After Japan’s period of colonialism, Mingung Pulgyo, or “Buddhism for the people” remained an intricate, though somewhat subdued, part of Korean society (Korean Buddhism, Wikipedia).

Templestay: Deep Travel Meets Mindfulness

When travelling abroad, it is easy to get swept up by the “must see” sights, and remain on the outside looking in. But as we come to realise, there are multiple layers to explore at any destination. Deep travel means out of the box thinking, with an intent to try something new and experience authenticity. And sometimes great initiatives from governments and grass-roots organisations make it easier to do just that. 

In 2002, with the FIFA World Cup on the horizon, the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism introduced a cultural program and opened the temples to the general public. They wanted to share their beliefs and create a path for visitors (nationals and internationals) to delve deeper into Korean cultural riches. It has since become one of the most successful tourist programs in the country, emphasising personal development and wellness.

Templestay aims for participants to experience mindfulness, away from the buzz of modern life, a great opportunity to deep travel through South Korea. From a day to a couple of nights in the temples, guests join a community and monks become spiritual guides. Each temple has a uniqueness to them, starting with its locations between mountains, sea, and forests. For those not conversational in Korean, over 20 of the temples take part in the program with English-speaking members (Korea Tourism Organization, 2024). Depending on the length of stay, you may discover Buddhism and experience: Cham-Seon (Seon or Zen meditation), Balwoogongyang (monastic meals), Yebo (Buddhist ceremonies) and Da-Seon (Tea Ceremony). 

Finding a Templestay

At the time I lived in Seoul, studying kept me busy, and in between classes, I had Taekwondo practice and homework. I ran left and right, trying to take it all in. As I’d been to South Korea a few times, I knew something about the culture but had never heard of Templestay. Through fellow students, I learned of the program and decided there and then to explore the country more in-depth. I found the official Templestay website where you make all the reservations. It lists the temples, programs and activities, length of stay (typically 2 nights but in some temples it’s possible to remain longer), and prices (from ₩80.000 or £45 per person and night including vegan (or vegetarian) meals).

In May 2023, and with limited knowledge of Buddhism, I tried making a temple reservation. Taken aback by how busy they were, I managed to find space near one of my favourite cities in South Korea: Gyeongju. Golgulsa, the only stone cave temple in Korea, an hour away by public bus from the city, offered various activities like archery and horse riding besides its regular schedule. Its association with Seonmudo, a “form of moving meditation and martial art”, sealed the deal.

Long ago, I had been told that timing is key, and events, people, and animals appeared to the right person at the ideal time. As I stood with my temple clothes ready to change, it dawned on me that it might have been fate that brought me here.

Gyeongju – A City Museum

Gyeongju has a magnetic pull, both in history and regarding my relation to it. As the capital of the kingdom of Silla, one of the three kingdoms of the Korean Peninsula, people hailed it as the most prosperous city of all, and its influence extended beyond its borders. Famous for work on gold and stone, the architecture was second to none. Through the ages, it suffered assaults on its temples and palaces but remained a cultural centre. To this day, Gyeongju goes by the nickname “museum without walls” for its historical features, visible throughout the city and its surroundings.

From Seoul, it takes about 2 hours by KTX train or 3.5 by coach/car. I visited Gyeongju a couple of times and spent a week there altogether. With a lot of sights spread around, time is of the essence. And while driving may be more comfortable and faster for some, I choose local buses. First, because they run through the city to temples and hiking trails. Second, I love being on them as a way to fully immerse myself in the culture, and listen to older people as they go about their days.

Public transport in South Korea is fairly easy once you have the right tools. With a rechargeable Tmoney card, you have access to transport in Seoul and various other cities, excluding intercity trains and coaches. Additionally, it works for everyday grocery purchases at local corner shops like 7eleven, CU, and Gs25. Use Naver Maps – usually better than its American counterpart Google Maps – to navigate from A to Z.

Famous and Unmissable Sights in Gyeongju

The Grotto of Seokguram and the Temple of Bulguksa: UNESCO heritage spots since 1995 and part of the Gyeongju National Park. It is an excellent combo and there is a trail to Seokguram that takes an hour to walk.

Gyeongju National Museum: Home to many artefacts and Buddha representations from the region. On the outside, it looks like a traditional Hanok-style building with a concrete twist. Entry to the main exhibition is free.

Gyeongju National Park: Right in town, open to all without cost. I love going in the evening as the lights switch on and the place transforms into a fairyland. There, you can see the Royal Tomb Complex, which are burial mounds found all over the park, and the Cheomseongdae observatory.

Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond: Again, I recommend the evening as the lights make the palace reflect in the pond, giving it an ethereal feel. It is a quicker visit but extremely worth it.

Gyeongju World Culture Expo Park: Outside of town but a great activity for all to learn about the city’s history until modern times. There are a few immersive light exhibitions that South Koreans so adore, and a gallery further up the park which celebrates local artists.

And of course, Golgulsa Temple, where I stayed for two days and one night, an experience like no other.

Golgulsa Temple

From Gyeongju, I took bus number 100-1 from the intercity terminal and stopped at Andong Kirimsa Golgulsa Temple Entrance, short of an hour later. As luck would have it, a temple employee offered me and two Brazilians I had met on the bus a ride, otherwise a 25-minute walk. Arriving with a joyous mood, we were welcomed at the main office, and got information about the temple. We checked in to get our rooms and received our schedules for each day of the Golgulsa Templestay.

At this exact moment, I realised why the temples were so busy. It was Buddha’s birthday or Seokga Tansinil, on 27th May at the time of my stay in 2023. Based on the lunar calendar, the date differs each year.

During the day, the temple buzzed with visitors coming for prayers and for the celebrations, which included traditional music played on the Gayageum (an 8-stringed bamboo instrument), chants, and fan dance (Buchaechum). In addition, the monks performed an impressive showcase of the Seonmudo martial art form. Shortly after all official events, the temple emptied itself, and there remained only the guests of the Golgulsa Templestay. Suddenly I felt enveloped by a rather new feeling: solemnity.

Golgulsa Templestay: Living within Buddhist Principles

A few rules had to be observed: quietness, bowing as we’d enter across all prayer rooms, male and female sleeping in different areas, and strictly vegan/vegetarian meals. After all, the essence of Buddhism is the respect of other beings.

We met our guide in the Seonmudo university building for a training introduction. Combining the stillness seen in certain yoga practices and strong martial arts forms, we all faced physical challenges. Next came the traditional 108 Prostrations ceremony, which is done once a day every day. The ceremony proceeds as such: we bow 108 times to free ourselves from the 108 sources of suffering. You bend at the knees, keeping your hands in a prayer position near the chest. Then you lower the knees down to the floor and place your forehead on it as well, palms facing the sky, before standing up again.

By the end of the afternoon, I felt stretched but soon realised that the combined art of meditation and breathing exercises were tools to overcome physical restrictions. At 7 pm, after our meal, we headed to the various shrines on higher ground to participate in the lighting ceremony, celebrating Buddha’s birth. Walking behind the head monk, a palpable sense of belonging took hold. As the lanterns adorning the entirety of the temple grounds lit up, I could not help but feel impressed.

Golgulsa Templestay – Personal Development and Mindfulness

That night, we all went to bed early, and I slept the soundest I had in weeks. Wake-up time at 4 am was rough, though. The day began with morning chanting and meditation, which, I must be honest, put me right back to sleep. By 6 am, we ascended to the shrines in silence, together with the monks, a chance to further meditate, and for my mind to slowly wake.

For those staying a couple of days, Seonmudo practice can also take place at the beach, but because of the rainy weather, we trained at the temple instead. Through stretching, core challenges, and breathing, my body adapted. While not yet to a level where I could hold and kick with grace, I came out energised and wanting more. But at 11 am, my departure time rang out. Having felt like I was apart from the world, I had to jump back into reality.

In only a couple of days, I shared a unique experience with my fellow Golgulsa Templestay companions. I breathed and pushed my body. I slowed down and embraced the ways of Buddhism. A planner I’m not, but in a way, Templestay and Buddha’s birthday found me at the right time. The uniqueness of that weekend awakened a curiosity about mindfulness. Beyond the ability to immerse in meditation and breathing control, came a deeper understanding that what we surround ourselves with greatly impacts how we live. Complete wellness demands reflection and patience to make necessary changes.

More Templestays

I have yet to explore more temples, next time perhaps staying longer. I made the list already, and with Mihwangsa in the country’s southwest or Naksansa in the Gangwon Province (northeast), where the sea meets the sky, I have another reason to move back.

Have you done a Templestay at Golgulsa, or at other temples in South Korea? Which ones do you recommend? Let us know in the comment section! Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.