Little Havana: A Deep Tour of Miami’s Cuban Neighbourhood
One Planet Journey’s Carolyn Turner goes into the beating heart of Cuban-American culture with a deep exploration of Little Havana, Miami. Enjoy the rhythmic sounds of salsa spilling out of domino parks to the rich aroma of Cuban coffee drifting through the air. This vibrant neighbourhood celebrates identity, resistance, and joy. Carolyn uncovers the stories behind the murals on Calle Ocho, meets locals who lived through exile and revolution, and savours mouthwatering Cuban food.
To the enticing and seductive music, I enter a luxurious room. There are jewel-toned emerald walls, broken up by soft, caramel leather booths. An expansive oak ceiling overlooks it all. The night is stifling hot and I welcome the intermittent breeze, a breath of fresh air from the thick humidity. The glass of ice cold mojito does its job as well, filled to the brim with slices of lime and mint. It gathers beads of moisture, which drip down my hand as I sway to the beat of the congas. Constant laughter and chatter fill the place as people dance to the sounds of the trumpet and maracas. Has time frozen? Am I in a nightclub in 1950s Havana? It certainly feels that way.
Little Havana – A Cultural Gem in Miami
Welcome to Little Havana in Miami, USA, a vivacious neighbourhood located west of Miami, Florida. Defined by its Cuban and Latin American influence, you find Little Havana a short 30-minute car ride from popular Miami neighbourhoods such as South Beach, Mid-Beach and Brickell. Or 10 minutes from the Miami International Airport if you’re flying in.
It’s only recently that it has established itself as Miami’s Cuban diaspora. This colourful part of Miami is a delight for visitors and a taste of home for Cuban and Latin American immigrants. The authenticity of Little Havana speaks volumes and, while most people visit for an afternoon or evening, I suggest that my fellow deep travellers spend at least a day or two fully immersing themselves in this unique subculture.
History of Cuban Immigration
Cuban immigration to the United States got going in the 1800s. Most newcomers settled in Key West, Florida, pulled in by work in the booming cigar-making business. The biggest wave of Cubans came after the revolution in 1959. With different immigration policies over the decades, Cubans have kept coming to pursue the American dream. This despite dangerous ocean crossings, often in homemade boats or even on makeshift flotation devices, all hoping to survive that perilous 177-kilometre (110-mile) journey from Havana to Florida.
The Founding of Little Havana
This story of perseverance and hope is a common thread amongst Cuban Americans. Art historian Roberto Ramos shares a similar tale. He’s one of the most instrumental figures in the founding of Little Havana with a passion for art that stretches back to 1982.
While living in Cuba, Roberto helped an elderly man move into a new home. Upon completing the work, Roberto requested 400 Cuban pesos (roughly equalling 20 American dollars) to buy jeans.
Roberto explained, “If I got a used pair of American jeans from a friend, I’d be able to go to a party. All the women would look at me and I’d be the macho man with American jeans.”
The client did not have 400 pesos, but gave Roberto a painting by a famous Cuban artist instead.
A Passion for Cuban Art
A painting holds little significance for most 17-year-old boys, but because Roberto’s autistic brother loved it, he kept the artefact. When he couldn’t find any additional works by the artist Carlos Sobrino at the National Museum of Fine Arts in Cuba, he took more of an interest in it. Then, after searching the National Library for more information, he instead discovered gaping holes in much of Cuba’s history prior to the Revolution.
“Now, forty years later, I haven’t stopped researching and collecting art,” says Roberto. “I’ve also dedicated my entire life to recovering the history of my country.”
Leaving Cuba
From here, Roberto’s story only gets more interesting. He began protesting the Cuban government, with three spells in prison as a result. After the final time, he made the difficult decision to leave his country.
In 1992, he set sail for America with fourteen paintings by Cuban artists in tow. On the first day, his rudder broke, and he lost his drinking water overboard. After five days without food and water, the U.S. Coast Guard found him. Both he and the precious art survived.
Little Havana is Born
After operating multiple art galleries, Roberto started a new concept to showcase the arts of painting, architecture, writing, dance, ballet, and music. It became a reality in the early 2000s, called the Cubaocho Performing Arts Center. Cubaocho is located on Eighth Street, known famously as Calle Ocho, the centre of today’s Little Havana. Roberto’s decision to bring Cuban culture to Miami led to the development of the vibrant neighbourhood that still flourishes decades later.
Cuban Art in Little Havana and Calle Ocho
In Little Havana, there is Cuban artwork everywhere you turn. Street art, paintings, and sculptures delight your senses with bright colours and bold designs. Most businesses in Little Havana proudly display works from Cuban artists. One recurring theme in Cuban art is the rooster, translated to gallo in Spanish. It is an important figure that signifies courage, masculinity, and strength. In Little Havana, there are multiple colourful rooster sculptures on Calle Ocho, as well as the occasional live rooster wandering the streets and giving you a lovely, if not loud, wake-up call in the morning.
A Local Pastime in Domino Park
A unique feature of Little Havana in Miami is Domino Park. Here, residents come to play dominoes, talk, or gossip. As you’d expect, most regulars to Domino Park are of Cuban descent, but I also found a mix of other Latin American countries represented there as well. The city of Miami has committed itself to maintaining the park. The aim is to preserve a sense of community in Little Havana, but also to ensure a safe space for its residents. Funnily, there is a minimum age of 55 to play, but the park is open to all spectators. Just in case you want to watch a rousing game of dominoes.
Cuba’s Musical Lifeblood in Little Havana, Miami
To have one of of the most authentic experiences in Little Havana, I suggest listening to traditional Cuban music. Many restaurants have Cuban artists performing day and night, so you have a wealth of choices to enjoy this form of art. Cuban music is as lively as the culture and there are multiple instruments involved. This includes the guitar, the clave [a percussion instrument made of two hardwood sticks], conga drums, the güiro [a hollow percussion instrument with a serrated surface that is scraped with a stick], maracas, and also the piano.
It doesn’t really matter if the song is upbeat and energetic or slow and seductive. Cuban music will always lift your mood. I recommend these excellent venues to enjoy authentic Cuban music: The historic Ball & Chain music bar and Sala’o Restaurant & Bar.
A Testament to Cuban Musical Tradition
I had the opportunity to speak with Cuban musician and flautist Javier Porta. For 12 years, he has lived his lifelong passion teaching and performing traditional Cuban music in Miami. There are many genres, but, for Javier, the most significant is Son Cubano. This style originated in the highlands of eastern Cuba in the 19th century and combines the structure of Spanish vocals and lyrical metre with African percussion instruments.
Other styles, such as salsa, rumba, and mambo, also have African, Puerto Rican and Spanish elements, all influenced by the Son Cubano style. For Javier, performing in Little Havana is an important tribute to Cuban culture. I asked him where travellers should go to get the most authentic musical experience and he said it must be Cubaocho. He even brings his family there for its excellent music, food, and culture.
Cuban Cuisine in Little Havana, Miami
Little Havana’s gastronomic delights are a treat and reason enough to slowly explore this neighbourhood. From sunup to sundown, Cuban cuisine has plenty of flavourful dishes to satisfy most appetites. You might have heard of café Cubano (Cuban coffee), which refers to the style of brewing espresso with sugar, using a coffee pot called a moka. You can drink this coffee straight up, or mix it with steamed milk. The result is a balanced, sweet brew that is impressively smooth on the tongue. Be sure to pair your café Cubano with a pastry from one of Little Havana’s authentic Cuban bakeries.
I like Arahi’s Bakery and ordered the pastelito de guayaba y queso – a flaky puff pastry filled with guava and cream cheese. The pastry crust is light, crunchy, and buttery, and the guava is just sweet enough to combine perfectly with the strong coffee.
Try a Cuban with a Mojito
A must-try in Little Havana? I have to say that honour goes to be the Cuban sandwich, or “a Cuban” as locals call it here. It looks deceptively simple, but it’s a wonderful stack of ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese, pickles, and mustard, all on Cuban bread. Pressed panini-style, the meal also comes with rice and beans. What you get is that irresistible crunch, followed by a savoury, cheesy filling, followed by a subtle kick from the mustard.
Beyond the Cuban, you’ll also want to try other Cuban classics like sweet plantains, tostones (that’s twice-fried plantains), ropa vieja (slow-cooked shredded beef in tomato sauce, also with rice and beans), and lechon asado (Cuban roast pork).
And let’s be honest, your experience won’t be complete until you’ve had a mojito. I saw the bartender get to work on this famous Cuban cocktail as he muddled fresh mint sprigs, sugarcane juice, and fresh lime juice. Then he added white rum and soda water. On a hot day, it hit just right, cool and refreshing. Personally, my favourite mojito comes from Versailles Restaurant. It’s a real historic spot where you can chill at the outdoor bar while you wait for your table.
An Authentic Experience in Little Havana, Miami
There are so many reasons to explore Little Havana: the bright colours of Calle Ocho, the alluring beats of the congas, or your first bite of a Cuban sandwich. More important than these, however, are the emotions evoked when you visit. From the art, culture, food, and music, you cannot help but experience freedom. This is the legacy of Little Havana and its founders.
The vivacious spirit of the Cuban people is present on every corner. It’s contagious, and you get caught up in it. I say embrace it. Let’s appreciate this colourful, lively neighbourhood and the sacrifices made to get here. Remember, this is much more than a great place for a mojito. But it sure is a good cocktail.
Have you been to Little Havana in Miami? Have you visited Cuba as well? Let us know in the comments. Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.
