Traditional Yoga Teacher Training in Rishikesh, India

One Planet Journey’s Hannah Pentin travels to the capital of yoga, Rishikesh, India, for a traditional and authentic yoga teacher training. During a month she discovers the ancient roots of yoga, including its special diet, learns about Indian culture and spirituality, while undergoing personal development of the intense kind.

Rishikesh – The Yoga Capital of the World

Imagine enjoying a slice of authentic pizza in Italy, made with a traditional recipe, which encompasses the history and ambience of the country, versus biting into a defrosted supermarket pizza.

The latter lacks the depth and authenticity of the original, as culture sometimes gets lost in translation. 

The same goes for yoga. And therefore I chose to do my teacher training in Rishikesh – yoga’s birthplace. It’s a serene and spiritual town located in the foothills of the Himalayas, by the Mother Ganga (holy river). A place which, for centuries, has attracted seekers and practitioners of spirituality from all over the world, mainly because of its vast array of renowned ashrams and gurus. 

When I looked for my YTC (Yoga Teacher Course), I came across various schools in Thailand, Indonesia, and other countries, which are, let’s say, more popular, especially in Western society. But they didn’t feel like the right environment for me.

Culture and Lifestyle

Yoga isn’t just a “practice”, it has a history of spiritual and cultural tradition. Being in the exact place where deep-rooted teachings began, many of the teachers grew up surrounded by the art of “yuj” in their everyday lives. And this meant my learning would be, more likely, undiluted. 

I believe it’s important to practise and teach “traditional” yoga, so that the age-old tradition remains preserved in its original form. Yoga is actually the modernised name of the Sanskrit word “yuj” – which means “union” – this I learnt on day one, and I had no idea the pronunciation had changed, let alone its purpose and practice.

Today there is a focus on yoga being a physical exercise, and doing asanas (poses) that look cool, thanks to social media. But, in reality, we have lost the true essence of “yuj” which defies definition. It has a meaning unique to everyone’s individual opinion and experience. However, its significance goes beyond asanas, and “looking good” – it’s about the connection between breath and movement, or mind and body. 

In the ancient epicentre of the art, I discovered not only an alternative culture, but a new lifestyle, through observing a religion I’d never had such proximity to before (Hinduism). I also embarked on a yogic diet, fully vegetarian.

Yoga Community

Our diet was 70% sattvic, 20% rajasik and 10% tamasic – the three pillars of Ayurvedic food (please consult the Yoga Lexicon at the end of the article for exact definitions). This diet accompanies yoga, and has done so for centuries…and therefore meant that I could immerse myself into the yogic environment. 

I knew this aspect would take me outside my comfort zone. Given the profound effect an environment can have on your being, thinking and actions, this diet, as well as other adjustments in terms of discipline and lifestyle, enabled me to absorb the atmosphere more profoundly. After all, this form of deep travel demands going all in.

Living in Rishikesh for a period of one month, offered me a pure glimpse into the authentic Indian way of life – from visiting the doctor when I felt unwell, to observing the evening Pooja ritual carried out by members of the yoga school’s host family. 

But it also allowed me to meet other yoga and travel enthusiasts. A diverse, global community takes precedence here, which forms a comfortable bubble in which you share experiences. 

Through a yoga teacher training in Rishikesh, you not only graduate as a teacher, and gain the professional skills to go out into the real world, but you also undertake a deep inward journey. And through it all, the rich cultural heritage that envelops India accompanies you. 

Yoga culture in Rishikesh, India

At Dehradun airport, the driver from the yoga school greeted me. He took me and others (from the same course) to our destination by car. Let me tell you, venturing in by road was the perfect experience to get exposed to Indian culture, as the country has a reputation for crazy traffic. Round the mountains, tight corners and bends, just the way to wake me up and realise I was in this rural, holy town in India after almost 24 hours of flying from the UK. This drive encompassed passing by monkeys in the forests, various living conditions in the area, markets, cows wandering the streets, and other unique encounters. The best bit came at the last corner, in which you could see the entirety of Rishikesh – the place I’d call home for the next month. 

On arrival at the school, staff members helped us carry our stuff up the hill. From first impressions, I came away besotted by the school’s appearance and aura – the spiritual warmth, the atmosphere of tranquillity amongst nature, the harmonious backdrop of the Himalayan mountains. 

Yoga Shala

The yoga shala – where I spent the majority of my 28 days at this school – was just a short walk from my room (which I shared with one other person). To start, this yoga hall had no air conditioning. Not ideal for the first week, given that Rishikesh was “the hottest it had been in 50 years” (according to a local), with a temperature of almost 50°C. 

They installed air conditioning by the second week (phew!). But, one thing about Rishikesh is that in the warmer months or the monsoon, there are constant electricity outages! Something we all had to adjust to over the time we stayed there. 

The school had various areas for relaxation and journalling, as well as socialising. My favourite spot was the cosy, swinging cocoon chair, fitting only one person. I could sit there for hours and do nothing but stare at the mighty mountains. The two other swing chairs in the gardens were perfect to share moments with other students while having an early morning cup of black tea. 

Pyramid Yogshala’s landscape displays clear attention to detail, with serene gardens and carefully placed seating areas. We ate all our meals in this charming hut-like structure, open to nature so we could see the lush greenery of the gardens, and views of the mountains. Plus, now and then, we had a surprise visit from wild monkeys, some more devious than others. 

The layout of the meal came in the form of a Thali. This is a traditional North-Indian style of serving food.

Yoga Course Specifics

With the 28-day course package, you get your own yoga kit (mat, blocks, books, textbook and pen, yoga shirt and bag), three organic vegetarian meals a day, plus herbal teas and healthy juices.

Various activities counted as part of the price too! Wednesdays were activity days (planned by the school), and Sundays meant time off. Free time offered an opportunity to discover more about Indian culture. We had an amazing Indian cooking class, hosted by a member of the family who runs the yoga school. He showed us how to make a few traditional dishes – creamy paneer butter masala, chapati, dal soup, and masala chai. 

One Wednesday morning we got up at 4am for a scenic drive up some winding roads. On arrival, we walked up quite a few steps to make it to a sunrise viewpoint. As you reach Kunjapuri temple complex, the silhouettes of various mountains in the distance welcome you, and with the sun rising slowly, colourful hues disperse across the landscape. I remember the crisp and cool air, and the setting which denoted a spiritual aura. We not only witnessed the beauty of the morning activity amongst the Himalayan district, from above, but we also got blessed by the priest inside the temple, and got a full immersion into the local culture and religion. Afterwards, our school took us for a traditional chai in a road-side cafe, which also doubled as someone’s home. 

Spirituality and Community

The highlight of my time in Rishikesh was definitely experiencing Ganga Aarti. And, I can not recommend this enough if you are visiting India. It’s a spiritual ceremony which takes place on the banks of the River Ganges. With the crowds, fire symbolism, and repetitive chanting, and many other aspects – it’s not only a visual experience but a sensory one, full of spirituality.

As the ceremony draws to a close, people come together and dance to traditional music, while quite a few also take the opportunity to dip their feet in the holy water. It’s a reminder of the deep, spiritual connection that the citizens of India share with the river Ganges. It showed me a side of the country I’d never really heard about. Not dangerous or presented as poverty-ridden, but high on community spirit. A space in which Indians congregate from all round the country, and celebrate their devotion to their religion. 

Another immersive experience occurred when visiting the meditation cave called Moni Baba. Our guide, or should I say yoga teacher, who had grown up in the town, explained the significance of the site to us, and the role of Sadhus in society. 

The markets in Rishikesh provided further highlights – the hectic scenes of rickshaws, people selling various clothes, food, and jewellery. As a woman, one uncomfortable aspect centred around getting asked for multiple photos by groups of men. This is something you become accustomed too over time, especially the act of saying no politely. 

Yoga Moments

The yoga routine consisted of intense learning from 6 am to 7 pm every day – deepening our understanding of anatomy, philosophy, different styles of yoga (like Hatha and Ashtanga), teaching methodology, pranayama, shatkarma, meditation and even mantra chanting. 

I loved the equal balance of theoretical and practical aspects. It followed the holistic layout and standards of the Yoga Alliance. Although, each class had its own personal touch thanks to the individual teachers. They brought their own perspectives as locals. Because of their classes, we, as students, could deepen our knowledge of yogic practice and its origins. 

One of the most unusual customs in yoga, which I had to try, goes by the name Sutra Neti. This requires the insertion of a thread or rubber tube into the nostril, and taking it out through the mouth. I know it doesn’t sound enjoyable. It wasn’t. The first few attempts included tears, coughing, and almost puking. But eventually I managed, as the days passed. After doing it a few times, I realised its benefits, as my sinuses became clear and unclogged. 

Yoga Highlights

Some of my favourite moments from the training came in the Ayurveda class – learning the basics of the ancient medicinal system, native to India.it inspired me to revisit Ayurveda after the course, and even have a (free) lesson by a specialised doctor in Kerala – the epicentre of Ayurveda. And even now, back in the UK, I am determined to continue learning, as it’s something that I find myself drawn to. I actually bought a book in Kochi, which defines diseases and their prevention through Ayurvedic methods.

And, naturally, the International Day of Yoga turned out to be a day of highlights! We got to practise yoga with the entire school, all our teachers, and staff together, on the beach, by the holy river. Afterwards, we took part in a form of Karma yoga, which means “taking action”. This involved getting garbage bags and picking up litter – of which there is plenty.

The best part of a teacher training course is seeing yourself develop internally, from start to finish. Looking back at the opening ceremony, I did not know what I was in for. A month of intense heat, lifestyle changes, valuable teachings on discipline and commitment, and introspection. 

Overall, if you’re interested in yoga teacher training, I highly recommend courses that include aspects other than just asana practice. Look for elements of culture and tradition, discover what accompany asanas, and influence the experience as a whole. I went to India for my yoga teacher qualification, and I returned home with so much more.