Deep Travel through Cape Town’s Southern Suburbs

Join One Planet Journey’s Pamela Brennan, a Cape Town resident, and experience the slow rhythm of its leafy Southern Suburbs where history, culture, and hidden gems await beyond Table Mountain. This is deep travel at its finest: from ancient stone markers to forest bathing in secret gardens, from koesuster queues to wine tasting beneath a highway. Step into a side of the city most visitors never see, and discover what makes Claremont, Kenilworth and Wynberg truly unforgettable.

Colloquially, we refer to Cape Town as the Mother City, because, like having a baby, everything takes a long time. As someone who lived in Johannesburg, a pulsating city that waits for no one, living in Cape Town has been a journey of personal development. A great aspect of deep travel is that you can have micro-adventures in your own neighbourhood. For me this includes the authentic and soulful Southern Suburbs of Claremont, Kenilworth and Wynberg.

Milestone Marker on Main Road, Kenilworth, Cape Town 

This milestone stands along Main Road, lost in plain sight despite the frequent traffic. An old stone pillar, swathed in deep shadows. Perhaps a fence post without a fence? On the contrary, that stone pillar with VII etched across it actually marked the distance and travel time between Cape Town and Simon’s Town.

This became a mandatory practice in England in 1814. However, it only came into effect in South Africa when Simon’s Bay turned into a British naval station. We’ll be exploring places within a 2 km radius of this marker; hence, it serves as the fulcrum point for our tour, reminding us we used to measure travel in patience and footsteps.

Cultural Heritage & Wedding Traditions at Arderne Gardens 

Stroll down Main Road and you’ll find a botanical treasure known as Arderne Gardens. In a time-honoured tradition, newly-wed couples clad in bright traditional dress, with boisterous families in tow, often pose for a photoshoot at the Wedding Tree. This Moreton Bay Fig must feature in generations of Cape Town wedding albums.

Arderne, a timber merchant from England, founded the Gardens in 1845. Arderne Gardens offers a chance to enjoy this deep travel oasis, whether relaxing across the sprawling lawns or venturing down its winding paved footpaths.

People-watching will reward you with office workers tucking into takeaway lunches, an acrobatic yoga class, or mums with giggling toddlers out for a morning stroll. There’s no entry fee, though you’re welcome to donate a small amount towards the upkeep of the Gardens. The Friends of Arderne Gardens have kept it thriving for 165 years.

The Champions of Claremont, Cape Town 

One cannot help but stand in awe at the sheer scale of the Champion Trees, the green skyscrapers of Claremont. Croaking frogs and the low hum of bees fill your ears as you cross the wooden garden bridge over a lotus-filled pond bordered by a lush bamboo grove.

Another nod to Japan is the Green Legacy Hiroshima Garden. This section features plantings of three survivor tree species: Kurogane Holly, Persimmon and Ginkgo. These botanical stalwarts regrew despite being within 2 km of the atomic bomb’s hypocentre.

You emerge at the entrance after a mindful dose of Shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) to medicate your restless soul. Feeling rejuvenated and inspired by these defenders of nature, we make our way back into the hustle and bustle that is Main Road.

Historic Architecture and Griffyn House in Wynberg, Cape Town 

Walking along Wolfe Street in the Old Wynberg Village, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re walking inside a period drama set in England. This suburb, known as Chelsea Village, boasts the highest concentration of traditional thatched cottages as well as Georgian and Victorian buildings.

Look up quickly. The turret of Griffyn House shows off a cascade of slate. It’s flanked by stone griffyns that serve as decorative symbols of protection. These mythical creatures likely originate from the Gobi Desert as guardians of treasure.

The juxtaposition of traditional and modern buildings share a happy space under their watchful gaze. It’s a fitting mix of design and décor businesses that have set up shop here.

The suburb operates under strict rules to preserve this historical architecture while still allowing locals full use of the space. This approach ensures that Chelsea Village continues as a sustainable living heritage site, a cultural hidden gem.

Did You Say Koesuster or Koeksister? Local food experiences in Cape Town 

I lived in Johannesburg for 25 years and thought I knew the meaning of a koeksister. I later learned that the Dutch-style koeksisters bear little resemblance to the Cape Malay koesusters. These are not the plaited, syrup-infused desserts you’d buy from a tannie (auntie) at a roadside padstalletjie (stall).

Koesusters blend a subtle mix of cardamom, aniseed and even naartjie (tangerine) peel in a yeast dough. Oval balls are deep-fried, boiled in a light syrup, then rolled in coconut. These authentic koesusters reflect the culture and influence of Malay/Indonesian food heritage on a Dutch dessert.

It’s a Sunday tradition to buy koesusters from Bibi’s Kitchen in Wynberg. I only realised this upon walking in and finding a long queue winding its way around the store. The smell of koesusters frying motivates you to keep shuffling forward, eager to bite into those hot, syrup-dipped delights. Some patrons find the nearest table to sneak a quick taste. One has to wonder how many actually make it home for the rest of the family…

Constantia Wine Tasting at Nova Zonnestraal: A Hidden Gem Under the Highway 

I drove past this mysterious driveway for two years. Curiosity finally got the better of me. I booked an afternoon wine tasting, expecting just another wine farm. Instead, I found a prestigious stable yard.

This dual nature of Constantia Royale isn’t the only quirk in its history. The Zonnestraal farm split in two when the M3 freeway cut through the land. As a result, it has a unique wine cellar that sits beneath one of Cape Town’s busiest highways. You see an idyllic setting of 17 hectares of vineyards and listen to the canter of a horse as you sip their well-rounded Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc Reserve blend. This unexpected immersion in equestrian elegance and winemaking epitomises the area’s quiet magic.

Roger Burton (sadly, no relation to Richard Burton), crafts the wine as the winemaker extraordinaire. He eagerly explained the complexity of the wine and recommended food pairings to complement its fruity notes. His suggestions? Traditional snoek (thin mackerel like fish) with a recent Sauvignon Blanc for seafood dishes, or creamy pasta to accompany their more noble offerings.

Roger also spoke about the valley’s slate-rich geology and the importance of good mould in the fermentation process.

The vineyard will soon host a live performance by the reggae band Rivertones, which gives us the perfect reason to return. The past, present, and future intersect at Constantia Royale in unexpected ways. This vineyard, or should I say stable, canters proudly onward.

Cape Town’s Southern Suburbs – For the Deep Explorer 

This curated selection is an amuse-bouche to inspire you to do more than take the cable car to the top of Table Mountain. I encourage you to go beyond the Big 6 tick list of Cape Town’s main attractions. Seek out these hidden gems to better understand the historical architecture, diverse cultures, tantalising cuisine, and natural beauty enjoyed by residents on an average weekend in Cape Town’s Southern Suburbs.

The Southern Suburbs aren’t on most travel itineraries, and that’s precisely the point. Here, you won’t find cars or crowds. But you will have time to wander, taste, listen, and feel. To experience Cape Town not as a checklist, but as a rhythm. That’s the invitation to deep travel. Are you up for it?

Have you been to Cape Town’s Southern Suburbs? What parts did you go to? Let us know in the comments. Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.