Deep Travel in China: Terracotta Army, Culture, and Food in Xi’an

Shaanxi native, Yali Kang, gives One Planet Journey readers the inside track to the historic city of Xi’an in China’s Northwest. Get the story on unmissable sights like the Terracotta Army, the Giant Pagoda, and traditional cultural performances. And, of course, a large guide to the authentic Xi’an food scene loaded with delicious carbs.

Xi’an – A Historic City

As a Shaanxi native, I am honoured that Xi’an has become one of China’s most popular tourist destinations in recent years, showing travellers there is so much more to China beyond Beijing and Shanghai. China’s rich culture and heritage lends itself well to a deeper form of travel, where an intentional mindset to immerse yourself into the soul of the destination is at the core. In this first entry in a series of articles on deep travel in China, I will help you understand the pulse of Chinese cities, its inhabitants, and the attractions that make them unique.

In the heart of Northwest China, Xi’an presents a special allure for travellers wanting to dive into the roots of Chinese history. As the starting point of the ancient Silk Road and the former capital for 13 imperial dynasties, this city offers centuries of rich heritage. In fact, Shaanxi province holds the status of being a cradle of Chinese civilisation.

Most know Xi’an for the awe-inspiring Terracotta Army, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Other famous sights include the well-preserved City Wall that encircles the inner town (with the iconic Bellow Tower), but there is so much more to explore and experience. Xi’an has an exciting food scene and provides an exciting blend of traditions, colourful markets, and local flavours waiting to be discovered (and eaten).

Mount Hua

I also want to give an honourable mention to Mount Hua, one of China’s Five Great Mountains. It has a nickname you’ll have no problem remembering, “Number One Steepest Mountain Under Heaven”. Located about 120 kilometres east of Xi’an, the highest point reaches 2,154 metres with some dramatic peaks.

Historically, there is quite a lot of religious significance to this place, manifested through various temples on the mountain, and it’s seen as sacred both in Confucianism and Taoism. Apart from pilgrimages, Mount Hua has also been an important place for those seeking immortality due to the many Chinese medicinal plants thought to be found here.

I highly recommend a visit, but for now let’s start our immersive and authentic Xi’an tour! 

Top Attractions in Xi’an 

Emperor Qinshihuang’s Mausoleum and the Terracotta Army

I suggest you first stop at Emperor Qin Shi Huang’s Mausoleum Site Museum when travelling to Xi’an. At this scenic 2200-year-old spot, you will find the famous Terracotta Warriors and horses here.  

These sculptures form part of the burial of Qin Shi Huang. It is said that the ancient Chinese believed that “life should be the same after death”, with people living in a different space. The Emperor ordered craftsmen to make various types of terracotta warriors, so he could still meet his needs for food, clothing, housing, and transportation in the afterlife, while having an army to protect him.

The Terracotta Warriors and Horses Museum houses three pits, in which there are 8,000 real-size terracotta warriors and horses, wooden chariots and numerous bronze weapons. According to the Excavation Report of Pit No. 1, most of the warriors are between 175 and 183 cm tall, with the lightest weighing around 110 kg and the heaviest at about 300 Kilogram (Emperor Qinshihuang’s Mausoleum Site Museum, 2018).

If you look closely at each figure, you will find each one unique in height, body shape, clothing, facial features, expressions, etc. With their advanced age, I’m in awe. It’s no surprise people refer to the Terracotta Warriors as the “Eighth Wonder of the World”.

After leaving the site, take the bus for five minutes to reach the Qin Shi Huang Mausoleum Park. The Lishan Natural Scenic is a peaceful place to linger for a while. I recommended you visit the bronze chariot, among the cultural and historical figurines found here. 

Giant Wild Goose Pagoda

Find the Buddhist Pagoda in Da Ci’en Temple (built during the Tang Dynasty) on Yanta South Road. This square pavilion-style brick pagoda has seven floors and is about 64 metres high. Xuanzang, a famous Tang Dynasty monk, supervised the construction of the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, the same place where he later stored and translated scriptures.

It contains many Buddhist classics and cultural relics, including the Shakyamuni Buddha statues. As a bonus, you get a bird-eye view of the entire city from the top. A personal tip is to sit on a bench in the square, looking at the pagoda from afar, then waiting for the musical fountain show to start. 

Fortifications of Xi’an

The Xi’an City Wall is one of the oldest and best-preserved city walls in China. It has a history going back to the Ming Dynasty (14th century). After a couple of refurbishments, the latest in the 1980s, it now encloses the ancient heart of Xi’an, through a 14-kilometre-long wall. There are 4 main gates, and I recommend first heading to South gate as it is the most spectacular.

Walking on the wall offers an immersive way to experience the many historical layers of the city. It’s also possible to rent a bike and go around or even on top of the wall. You’ll get magnificent views of Xi’an’s urban landscape and its traditional architecture. Previously used for defence, it is now a peaceful invitation for deeper reflection and enjoying the richness of Chinese culture.

Xi’an Bell Tower

Constructed during the Ming Dynasty in 1384, this icon is 36 metres high. Before, it functioned as a military lookout, a place from which to convey important news, and as a timekeeper. Now it’s a sightseeing magnet, requiring a ticket purchase to get in.

Several legends give the tower extra character, including its suggested use as a tool to restrain powerful dragons. The wooden structure, adorned with intricate carvings and green-glazed tiles, harmonises with its surroundings and is a suitable spot for panoramic views over Xi’an. Inside, bronze bells and historic displays immerse you in the rhythm and legacy of ancient Chinese urban life.

Xi’an Tang Dynasty Culture

The North Square of Giant Wild Goose Pagoda is the starting point of the city that never sleeps. You should come here after 19:00 to get the best experience. When dusk falls and the neon lights turn on, the “Golden Tang Dynasty” immerses you in its splendid glory.

Xi’an Cultural Avenue 

When you walk around this area, you can’t miss the various performances on the main street. In the Poetry Art performance with the theme of Tang Dynasty poetry, you will see the famous poet Li Bai sometimes chanting, drinking, dancing with swords, and playing the zither (a stringed musical instrument). 

Another recommendation is a performer dressed as a girl from the Tang Dynasty. She holds a fan and sways steadily. It’s an interpretation of the charm and shyness of ancient Chinese women with her soft posture, beautiful movements, and smile. It has become a must-visit attraction for Chinese tourists.

There are over ten cultural shows on this street. When visiting, you can enjoy these performances for free, so don’t forget to wear a pair of comfortable shoes. You will also find all kinds of creative handicraft souvenirs like Chinese shadow puppets, paper-cuts, ceramics, and small jewellery with ancient costume styles.

Hanfu – The Traditional Clothes Experience 

One thing that may surprise you is that you will observe many ladies clad in gorgeous Tang Dynasty Hanfu outfits with exquisite makeup. You see men with fluttering sleeves, while I especially like the cutely dressed children, also with lovely makeup. 

Walking on the streets full of historical charm, you will want to get into the action. Why not? Choose a Hanfu store, select your favourite hairstyle, and have a more complete cultural experience.

There are many professional Hanfu centres in Xi’an, which provide services from makeup, photo pose guidance, photography, etc., with prices ranging from about 300 to 800 RMB. 

Xi’an Food Experience: The Capital of Carbohydrates

As a foodie, I can’t wait to share this part with you. Xi’an’s food scene is a delicious and aromatic blend of flavours shaped by its Silk Road history and diverse cultural influences. The city offers robust dishes, centring around hearty noodles, rich spices, and ingredients like lamb and cumin. The lively and authentic street food atmosphere is a must when visiting.

In Xi’an, locals have invented many creative ways to use and eat flour (wheat or rice). Next, I will introduce several of the most classic traditional and signature dishes, such as Biangbiang noodles and savoury Roujiamo (Chinese-style sandwiches).

Sanqin Set Meal

A typical Sanqin set meal includes cold skin noodles, Roujiamo (Chinese hamburger), and sparkling soda, which is a great enjoyment for Shaanxi people.

Cold-skin noodles called Liangpi, is a general term, and there are many subdivisions. Different regions, production methods, and raw materials have derived Qishan Gan Mian Pi, Mianjin Liangpi, Sesame Sauce Liangpi and Qinzhen Liangpi.

You can order the Sanqin set meal at any Liangpi or Roujiamo restaurant. As for drinks, orange sparkling soda is my favourite, but there are other flavours to choose from. Take this Sanqin as brunch, and you will get to know the locals and their lives better.

Qishan Gan Mianpi 

Making Qishan Gan Mianpi involves washing the dough (after adding water to knead it, then rinsing many times to separate the gluten and starch). Then follows sedimentation, fermentation, beating, rolling, and steaming. It is a handcrafted process with about ten steps and takes 3-4 hours (excluding time to ferment). The resulting texture is somewhere between chewy and soft.

Because of the extra fermentation step, the taste without seasoning is slightly more sour compared to the Mianjin Liangpi. The seasoning of rolled noodles includes star anise, cinnamon, and pepper powder, mixed with chilies, then stirred with hot oil, and finally you add vinegar and salt water. Expect a sour and spicy flavour. The brightly coloured chilli oil stimulates hunger.

Mianjin Liangpi

Mianjin Liangpi noodles are more homely than Gan Mianpi. Just add flour, water and salt to form a dough, then knead and wash to separate the gluten, which is solidified by boiling (called Mianjin).

You make the skin noodles by mixing precipitated batter with water and pouring it on a steaming plate. After it’s cooked over high heat, brush with oil, and cut into thin strips and top with seasoning. The process is relatively simple.

If you don’t wash out the gluten from the Liangpi, and then season with a large amount of sesame sauce, you have Sesame Sauce Liangpi.

Qinzhen Liangpi

Instructions for making Qinzhen Liangpi starts with soaking rice, grinding it into pulp, followed by filtering and steaming. Generally, they come in the shape of thin strips and are as white as jade. The texture is thicker and denser, and very smooth when you bite it. The aroma is strong and with chilli oil, quite addictive. It is a pleasure to eat while stirring them while letting the oil soak into their dense composition. Can you feel my love for Qinzhen rice noodles?

Which kind of cold noodles are you most hungry for?

I would recommend you to try some popular shops such as Weijia Liangpi, where I favour the beloved sesame sauce. Baobao Noodle House has authentic Baoji Gan Mianpi, and Xuechangli Rice Noodle Shop has Qinzhen Liangpi. Simply decorated places, but with incredible taste.

Chinese Hamburger – Roujiamo 

Roujiamo is a famous food in Xi’an and has several types. Today I’m going to introduce my favourite one. The pork belly stewed with a special marinade is fat and lean, and melts in your mouth; the Baiji Mo (bread) baked with charcoal is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. After cutting the Baiji Mo, put a layer of meat on it and pour a spoonful of marinade on top. Then sit back, satisfied with every bite you take. It’s best eaten while hot.

Roujiamo is a hometown delicacy that I miss so much wherever I travel around the world. I recommend you go to Ziwulu Xi’an Famous Foods. The Roujiamo there will not disappoint you.

Biangbiang Noodles 

Shaanxi people love noodles in their many forms, but Biangbiang is the most representative.

To make Biangbiang noodles, add an appropriate amount of salt and water to the flour, knead it into a dough and let it rest. Then, divide it into equal parts, apply cooking oil and leave it for 2 hours. Next, press the dough into strips by hand, create a mark with a rolling pin, and start pulling the noodles. After resting, they are soft but tough. Even when stretched, thrown, or pulled, they won’t break. When you toss them on the chopping board, there is a biang biang sound, which is the origin of the name.

Seasoning is simple: pour soy sauce, vinegar, salt, five-spice powder, chilli, and raw garlic on top along with hot oil. Serve with a few leafy greens to make a mouth-watering delicacy. It’s possible to eat Biangbiang noodles as a “full set” three-in-one, which adds minced meat, scrambled eggs with tomatoes and fried sauce, and then vegetables such as leeks, which makes it more enjoyable.

Pita Bread in Lamb Soup 

Another traditional delicacy that you should try in Xi’an is Pita Bread in Lamb Soup.

It’s high-quality mutton, stewed with various condiments. After a long stew, the mutton is tender and melts in your mouth. The special semi-dry dough ensures that the flat bread is still chewy after being soaked in the soup. Other ingredients and garnishes of this dish include vermicelli, few pieces of day lily buds and wood ear (fungi), chopped green onion and coriander. Standard accompaniments are chilli sauce and pickled garlic.

Locals like it fresh and early in the morning, as this is when butchers slaughter the mutton. Lao Sun’s and Tongshengxiang, and Lao Mi’s Pita Bread in Lamb Soup are all worth a try. 

Two Neighbourhoods for Local Food and Authentic Culture in Xi’an

The Muslim Quarter

Apart from the famous Great Mosque, the Muslim Quarter has a strong market atmosphere with a great concentration of food choices in Xi’an.

You can taste the various traditional Xi’an delicacies mentioned above, such as cold skin noodles and Roujiamo. But also Zeng Gao, a traditional dessert from Xi’an, made primarily from glutinous rice, red beans, and dates. The dish has a chewy texture and a somewhat sweet flavour, traditionally steamed in large iron steamers. Think of it as comfort food that’s enjoyed for breakfast or as a snack throughout the day.

Other foods to try include persimmon paste pancakes, crispy beef patties, sour soup dumplings, and grilled skewers.

Yongxingfang

Yongxingfang, located inside Zhongshan Gate on the east side of the Xi’an city wall in Xincheng District, offers traditional snacks from various regions of Shaanxi. There are also performances such as Qinqiang (Chinese opera), Huaxian shadow puppetry, and Pottery Xun playing (flute). A deeper way to experience the authentic folk culture characteristics of Shaanxi.

Welcome to Xi’an

Xi’an offers a journey into the heart of Chinese history, culture, and vibrant street life. You may know of it because of the iconic Terracotta Army, but this city has a depth of ancient wonders, like the majestic Bell Tower and well-preserved City Wall. A stroll through the Cultural Avenue or a meander in the Muslim Quarter reveals lively performances and an array of traditional dishes from the Xi’an food scene, from hand-pulled Biangbiang noodles to savoury Roujiamo sandwiches. With a rich blend of heritage, flavour, and community, Xi’an invites you to explore China’s cultural roots in a deep and delicious way.

Spring and autumn mean comfortable weather and represent good seasons to visit. Chinese National Day (1st of October) and New Year celebrations bring enormous crowds, so keep that in mind.

I hope I’ve convinced you to visit Xi’an. Curious where I will go next in the series of deep travel destinations in China?

Have you been to China? What cities or provinces have you visited? Let us know in the comment section! Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.