Hiking in Sipi Falls: Deep Travel in Uganda

For One Planet Journey, this story from Daan Kok, a Dutch concept designer helping hostels create more honest connections with their communities, is a powerful testament to a deeper way of travelling. During Daan’s seven years in Uganda, he learned what it truly means to slow down and fully connect with culture, nature, and local life. Here, he shares an unforgettable Uganda hiking trip in Sipi Falls with both his brothers. Beyond the usual tourist trails and full of unexpected kindness, challenges, and genuine moments that lingered long after he left.

Arriving in Kampala

My first big trip also took me outside Europe for the first time. I always knew I’d end up here: Uganda, Africa. If not for travel, then to visit my brother.

At Entebbe airport, I scanned the signs held by drivers, Smith, Debourge, Hillebrandt… then I saw my name: Kok. It’s a simple and common Dutch name, but let’s just say it doesn’t always sound great to English ears. I greeted my driver, got in the car, and set off towards Kampala – ready to dive into a whole new world.

Discovering the Rolex

Ugandan food quickly won me over. Simple, rich, and incredibly affordable. One local street snack had me intrigued: the “Rolex” No, not the watch. It’s a tasty street snack made with a chapati – a type of Indian flatbread, filled with a vegetable omelette and rolled up as a wrap. (Rolled eggs became Rolex). People often choose two eggs and two chapatis, but you can customise it however you like.

I was hooked. For four years, I made a daily trip to the same vendor to get my Rolex fix.

Sometimes at home, I tried to recreate it, but never got it to make it taste as good as it did back in Uganda. Maybe it has to do with the memories my brain still associates with it. It was just different. I’d walk down the market, see him smile as he cracked eggs into a plastic mug with his knife. He’d hack onions, slice tomatoes in his hand, grate carrot and cabbage. All the while, the smell of fresh chapati and greasy omelette filled the air.

Speaking of street food, an amazing vegan option for you: Kikomando. Two chapatis chopped up and covered in a bean stew with fresh avocado, tomato, onion, and cabbage. YUM!

Hiking In Sipi Falls, Uganda

A few months later, my second brother joined us for a 12-day road trip across Uganda. Most travellers opt for local buses. This slower and adrenaline-rich transportation option offers a window into everyday life.

After visiting Jinja, famous for thrilling Nile River rafting. We got to Sipi Falls, located in the Mount Elgon region, and close to Kabale, eager to get going on our planned hiking.

Sipi Falls has a reputation stemming from its stunning waterfalls, scenic hiking trails, and rich coffee culture. Though Ugandan coffee is exceptional, sometimes internationally marketed as Kenyan coffee. A little fun fact from my brother. 

Sipi Falls is also where marathon runners like Kiprotich, Kipchoge, and Kipkemboi come from. They are among the most legendary Olympic runners. The region’s high altitude, active lifestyle, and nutritious diet explains some of the success.

We made some stops before our planned hiking in Sipi Falls, often to get some food. Even before we came to a halt, a crowd of 20 vendors already cornered us. About 8 hands holding out grilled goat or pork on a stick. Another hand with a mango, yet another with passionfruit. Voices shouted prices, deals, and “Mzungu (white person).” In the end, all of us got 2 goat sticks, 2 pork sticks, a Rolex, a mango, a bag of passionfruit and a soda totalling 25,000 UGX (roughly 6 euro.) 

Immersive Accommodation at Moses Homestay

We chose Moses Homestay over the more commercial and luxurious lodges near Sipi Falls. This choice allowed us to engage deeply with the local community. The homestay offers 3 bandas (a clay and dung hut with a thatched roof), allowing up to 3 guests in one banda. The bathroom is communal. But the homestay has stunning views of the hills and waterfalls, and it is an easy departure point for any kind of trail hiking in Sipi Falls.

The owner used to work for Matoke Tours, which my brother is the co-owner of. My brother supported his wish to be a travel guide and sponsored his driving licence. Out of gratitude, Moses named his firstborn son after my brother, Wim. I find it hilarious that there is a kid running around in rural Uganda with such a typical Dutch name.

Sipi Falls: A Deep Travel Experience

After we enjoyed a dinner of matooke (steamed and mashed green bananas), posho (a thick maize porridge similar to polenta), and beans, we prepared for our early hike in Sipi Falls. Breakfast included bananas, local coffee, and a Spanish omelette with bread, a simple, energising start.

Led by my eldest brother, familiar with the area, we crossed rickety wooden bridges and old forests. My imagination centred on what animals lived there, or once did, what life might be like. While daydreaming and hiking, local children laughed and called us “Mzungu” as we passed, and followed us around. The trail eventually took us to a cool stream perfect for swimming. Here, we joined children bathing nearby while mothers washed clothes just metres away, drying them on the vast grass in the bright Ugandan sun. 

After swimming and absorbing the beauty of the place, we waved goodbye and headed on. The happiness and friendliness of everyone so far warmed us. This is why we travel and why Wim had been there for so long.

We pressed on. When I looked up, I saw more and more clouds forming above us.

Hospitality and Life Lessons

The clouds turned dark, and rain began to pour. We continued our Sipi Falls hiking adventure despite the weather. 

Soon, completely soaked, we found shelter thanks to a local woman who invited us into her simple banda. She offered warm tea and shared her meal of matooke with beans. Naturally, we suggested we pay. Meanwhile, her children had run inside, curious about these pale-looking people in their home, watching us eat. 

My brother pulled out his Polaroid camera and said, “I can do magic.” The children watched curiously as the black photo slowly revealed their faces. But the wonder soon turned to fear. The woman’s mood shifted quickly, her eyes sharp, voice firm as she shouted in broken English, “Go! Go!” Then, she added sharply in Luganda, “Genda eri!” meaning “Go away.”

That moment hit hard. It was clear our presence wasn’t welcome anymore. Luckily, the rain had stopped by now.

It served as a humbling reminder that deep travel means respecting local boundaries and traditions.

Coffee Tours and Reflection on Deep Travel in Uganda

After exploring two of the three waterfalls, we chose to do a coffee tour. We learned the entire coffee process; from planting and harvesting to roasting and brewing. The reward came as a cup of coffee from the beans we just roasted. This immersive experience perfectly captured the essence of deep travel Uganda can offer.

If you are searching for meaningful, immersive, and authentic experiences, I can highly recommend Uganda. I enjoyed the bustling streets of Kampala, and for adrenaline, the rush of white-water rafting and bungee jumping in Jinja worked wonders. Uganda has something for every kind of traveller. For more hiking trails beyond Sipi Falls, head to the misty rainforests of Bwindi, where you can hike to see silverback gorillas. There is also a hike to the snow-capped peaks of the Rwenzori Mountains.

Or why not take in the vast savannahs, meet the authentic tribes in Karamoja, or enjoy incredible birdwatching? Did you know Uganda has over 1,000 bird species, including the prehistoric-looking shoebill? Whether you’re on safari, kayaking the Nile, or just diving into the local culture, Uganda rewards deep travellers who take the time to really connect.

Have you been to Uganda? Did you go hiking in Sipi Falls? Let us know in the comments. Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.