Solo Hiking in Liguria: Adventure, Encounters, and Tranquillity
One Planet Journey’s Åsa Lindell, an expert on organising hiking trips in Europe, heads to Liguria in northern Italy, this time on a solo hike. Tag along for an adventure amid sea and mountains, featuring memorable encounters with humans and animals. Åsa also shares her best tips for successful hiking in Liguria. Time to lace up your boots and nourish both body and soul!
I drive along narrow, winding roads towards a mountain village I’ve never visited. New? Not quite. The villages here date back hundreds of years. I’m on an excursion, seeking half-day hikes near the Mediterranean in Liguria. So far, luck favours me. The region is ideal for hiking, with its small villages, welcoming locals, and breathtaking views of the sea and mountains. My only concern? The lack of marked trails. But that hasn’t deterred me before, and it certainly won’t today.
On my topographic map, I spotted two villages connected by several paths. Now I’m heading to one of them, Moltedo, humming with excitement as I do before every new hike, ready to embrace another day of solo travel.
Sono un camminatore – I am a hiker
Arriving at the village, I find what looks like a parking spot by the road. The word ‘Autobus’ appears next to it, but no prohibition signs mark the space. With some effort, I manoeuvre my large foreign car into place, careful not to touch the ‘Bus’ area. As I step out, a Fiat pulls in effortlessly, stopping 10 cm from my right side. The man inside smiles and gives me a thumbs-up. I return the gesture. Simple, positive nonverbal communication: a perk of solo travel.
Five minutes later, with boots laced and pole extended, I set off. The trail first winds through the village, where narrow alleys barely allow Vespas to pass. I let myself wander between old houses and twisting paths until I find myself in an alley where a man is repairing a Vespa. We lock eyes and he asks if I need help.
“I’m looking for the trail to Monte Grazie,” I say.
He laughs, as if surprised at the idea of walking between villages. Then he nods and says,
“Aha, sei un camminatore (you’re a hiker).”
An epithet I carry with pride.
At last, I find my way out of the village. As always, the start of a hike fills me with joy. The sense of freedom, curiosity, and adventure peaks in those first moments. Suddenly, the trail disappears into terraced olive groves. Sharp thorn bushes scrape my bare legs, and a sudden fear of snakes grips me. This happens from time to time, but despite my phobia, I’ve never avoided or abandoned a hike because of it. That’s a pact I made with myself: fear will not define my limits.
Back on Track
With no trail markers in sight, I climb two terraces before deciding to turn back. But to my relief, I spot the path on the second terrace. It’s faint and seldom used, but there it is. According to my hiking app, I’m now “on track”.
After a while, the landscape opens up. I see the valley below, and the trail turns into a sandy road with a gentle descent. I find myself humming again. Although I don’t meet anyone along the way, I notice farmers laying nets under the olive trees. They come in various colours, and they are soothingly beautiful. An hour later, I arrive at Monte Grazie. Narrow, winding alleys, old, worn houses, and the occasional flowerpot. It’s quiet.
As I meander through the village, a small, inconspicuous note pinned to a wall catches my attention. It reads, “Agriturismo, Camere e Ristorante,” with an arrow pointing in the direction from where I came. But I had seen nothing there, had I? I stop, hesitating. Surely, a meal and drink on a terrace would be delightful. A hunter passes by, saying he’s hunted wild boar. I ask whether he knows if the restaurant has opened. He points and says it’s 150 metres from where we stand. I turn and see the sign a little further down, below the minor road I had used.
Luna, Paco and the Signora
A barking collie welcomes me. The place seems closed, but I try the door anyway, and it opens. A Signora stands behind the bar, greeting me warmly and asking what I’d like. I start with something simple: “Can I have a drink?” The answer is yes. She’s stern but still exudes warmth and hospitality. “Is it possible to eat, too?” I ask.
“You’d have to order in advance,” she replies. I settle for a beer and a glass of water; maybe I can sneak out my dry bread. Then, she offers me a plate of local specialities. I accept with gratitude and step onto the large terrace with a fantastic view over the valley.
From solo to a group
It’s just me and Paco. Without delay, he introduces himself with a sharp, screeching chirp. The most beautiful parrot I’ve seen in a long time, turquoise, with a mischievous glint in his eyes. Paco has much to say, and the Signora responds with a few short words. “Does he never fly away?” I wonder.
“No, he sometimes takes a round but always returns,” she replies. So, there I sit, alone, with Paco right behind me and then I see the collie beside me. Her barking has stopped. Maybe I’m already part of the pack? By now, I know her name is Luna. I’ve read somewhere that knowing someone’s name helps build a relationship. I tell myself this applies to dogs, too. Luna seems to agree and moves closer. I suspect it’s because she expects her mistress to bring food, but I prefer to think it’s about our growing bond. At that moment, the door to the kitchen opens, and my plate arrives.
How delicious! There’s cheese, ham, salad, bread, olives, and a divine ratatouille. The cheese is creamy and full of flavour, and the olives have a mild fruitiness with an herbaceous taste. The Signora smiles and nods when I ask if they come from their plantation.
It’s one of those golden moments that makes hiking deeply rewarding. I live and breathe deep and meaningful travel, and I feel happiness in every part of my body, along with gratitude for the chance to experience this.
Perhaps I said something out loud because Paco starts chattering again, and when I turn around, he looks at me with indignation and flies a few metres away. He continues with the chatter. I sincerely hope I didn’t offend him in any way…
Time to say goodbye
I stay for a while, reluctant to leave, but eventually, I rise and bid farewell to Paco, Luna, and the Signora. Luna follows me out through the door, stopping to let me caress her. Her soft fur and intelligent eyes make me feel connected to her.
I continue through the empty village, taking a different path than planned. I allow myself to be lazy, reducing the altitude. Maybe at the cost of the views, but I’m satisfied. Even here, the farmers have laid out nets under the olive trees. It’s late October, after all, and time to harvest. I marvel at the colours and, as so often, at how much work goes into every olive or every drop of wine we consume. I promise to be more mindful when consuming and to give value to those who have produced my food and drinks.
A perfect hiking day in Liguria concludes in the ocean
When I return to the car in the middle of the afternoon, the Italian Fiat still sits beside it. No bus is in sight. The farmers in the village, busy preparing for the olive harvest, wave and smile at me.
“I met Paco!” I shout, waving back.
I drive 20 minutes to Porto Maurizio, a picturesque town by the sea, for a well-deserved swim. The water remains over 20 degrees. It’s truly amazing to hike and swim on the same day, especially with the perfect blend of adventure, tranquillity, and connection!
Q & A on Solo Hiking in Liguria
Who is this hike suited for?
Hikers of all levels. Inexperienced solo hikers should stick to routes near a village or small town. Always inform someone about your plans and where you’ll start.
How can I plan my hike?
Consult locals and tourist offices for recommended day hikes – but have a look at the map first. Apps like Outdooractive and All Trails help you find routes. A useful tip is to combine a digital topographic map with a physical one for a clearer overview. In some places, tourist offices sell them. Always check the weather before setting out – for example, ask your hotel for their preferred weather site.
When to go?
Spring and autumn are ideal for hiking in Liguria. These seasons offer cooler temperatures, fewer crowds, and a stronger focus on responsible tourism.
How to get there?
I started this hike in Porto Maurizio on the coast, then drove up to Moltedo, a 20-minute drive. However, you can begin anywhere and find a similar hike between villages with the help of a map and by asking locals for directions.
What to eat and drink?
Ask for regional specialities. Locally produced vegetables, wine, cheese, and meat add a unique touch to meals. In small restaurants and agriturismo, you’ll enjoy what the locals eat, deepening your connection to the place. Plus, it’s a great way to support local producers.
What to bring?
Always carry something to eat (e.g., a bar, nuts, or fruit) for energy, even if you plan to stop for a meal. Take enough water to last the day. Pack extra clothing (consider layers), rain and wind protection, a mini first aid kit, and toilet paper. I recommend at least one pole – it’s especially helpful downhill, easing the strain on your knees.
Language problems?
If you don’t speak the language, learn a few words to help you connect and get useful answers. You may need to ask for advice during your hike. An app like Italian Language Guide & Audio can also be of assistance.
Lastly, speaking with people you meet, even with a language barrier, is one of the greatest benefits of solo hiking!
Have you gone hiking in Liguria? What villages did you pass by? Let us know in the comments. Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.
