What to Eat in Scotland: A Food Tour of Edinburgh
One Planet Journey’s Daria Buson heads to her beloved Edinburgh to indulge in her expertise, food and travel. Don’t miss this passionate account about Scottish cuisine and what to eat in Edinburgh. Get to know the authentic dishes in Scotland, from haggis to wild salmon, and, of course, whisky. Daria has you covered from breakfast to evening cocktails, taking you on a food tour of Edinburgh’s best pastries, coffee, pints, street food, desserts, and teas, which actually means evening dinner. Enjoy the scran!
For absolute beginners, Scotland is the land of kilts, Harry Potter film locations, and Nessie – the Loch Ness monster. Or you think of Ben Nevis – the highest mountain in the United Kingdom, the charming bagpipes, and the endless golf courses. For foodies, it’s the place of haggis, shortbread, and whisky – or uisce beatha, ‘the water of life’.
I belong to the latter category. Much like Pippin in The Fellowship of the Ring, I’m all about “second breakfast” (insert Billy Boyd’s thick Glaswegian accent). Aside from exploring, learning and hiking, immersing myself in the local food scene is paramount to my travels. I can walk an average of 25 km a day on my trips, but elevenses, snacks and coffee breaks are essential.
And so, here are my recommendations for newbies to the Scottish food scene, followed by a tour of pubs, restaurants, street food vans, farmers’ markets, coffee shops, and bakeries in Auld Reekie (Old Smokey), the Scottish nickname for Edinburgh. For a extensive tour of sights and neighbourhoods to visit, please consult the free, self-guided walking tour of Edinburgh.
Scottish Cuisine: An Introduction
My Italian ancestors are likely turning in their graves, but I am a fervent advocate of British cuisine. Despite its lesser-known and often underrated status, Scotland has a long and old tradition of excellent food and drink that reminds me of most Italian regions, especially my own – Veneto.
The foundations of popular British cuisine lie in home-cooked meals and recipes concocted to provide workers and farmers with nutritious energy sources and make do with the produce derived by both land and sea, following a rather modern policy of zero waste. Traditional Scottish recipes use ingredients from local agriculture and fishing, while also boasting influences from the Middle East, India, Pakistan, and – you guessed it – Italy.
Scottish food classics
As mentioned, the premier dish on the list of Scottish delicacies is haggis, sheep entrails mixed with oatmeal, spices, and fat cooked in the animal’s stomach. Haggis is flavourful, intense, and peppery, often served with neeps and tatties, (turnips and potatoes) boiled and then mashed separately, accompanied by a dram of fine whisky. For sure, something to try on your Edinburgh food tour.
Meat
Scotland dedicates most of its land to farming and agriculture, resulting in high-quality produce. The European Union granted the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) to an array of Scottish products. Have you ever ordered Angus beef for your burger? Then you should know that the famous Aberdeen Angus cattle breed originates from north-eastern Scotland, exporting to other countries and cuisines.
Besides Angus beef, other typical meat-based dishes in Scottish cuisine include Stornoway black pudding, a blood sausage from the Western Isles. There is the Lorne, also known as ‘square sausage’ and traditionally served as breakfast in a bread roll with brown sauce and a tattie scone, a flat potato pancake. Scotch eggs, hard-boiled eggs wrapped in sausage meat and breading, then deep-fried. Scotch pies, crust pastry shells filled with minced mutton, and stovies, a stew of potatoes, onions, and leftover roast meat.
Seafood
The wealth of fish and seafood from the many Scottish shores and lochs introduced classics such as Cullen skink, a soup made of haddock, leek, and potatoes; cabbie claw, cod in white sauce, and partan bree, a crab soup. Another popular fish – and global export, too! – Scottish wild salmon, buttery and mild in flavour, while the Orkney Islands supply restaurants and fish markets with their finest scallops, crabs and lobsters.
Dairy
Dwelling on the dairy products Scotland and its islands have to offer would take hours. After all, it’s the land of sheep and hairy coos. The variety is great so I’ll narrow the list to two types of cheese that you definitely should try: Ayrshire Dunlop cheese and Orkney cheddar cheese – the smoked variety from these north-eastern isles melts on your tongue and leaves a spiced aftertaste that reminds of peat whisky.
Whisky
Whisky. The pride and joy of Scotland. The Gaelic term uisce beatha, ‘water of life’, dates back to the 15th century, but this spirit likely boosts more ancient roots. But how did Scots breathe new life into plain water? Mixing it with grain. Barley, mainly.
Through fermentation, distillation, and ageing in wooden casks, governed by strict regulations, this amber liquid acquires intense flavours and aromas ranging from sweet and floral to salty and bold. Whether you prefer a smooth, round, clean dram or a mouthful of smokiness, baked bread, and peat, Scotland provides the best whisky selection you could ever ask for, although competition is high against the Irish neighbours!
If you’re interested in this amazing world, join a whisky tasting and let experts guide you through the abundance of notes and aftertastes hidden in a glass. And don’t even get me started on Scottish ales…
Desserts
Scots have quite the sweet tooth, as illustrated by the array of sweets, biscuits and cakes that this country produces and consumes. After all, hiking up and down the Munros calls for quick sugar rushes. The most famous might be the shortbread, buttery biscuits that crumble like heaven in your mouth. Then you have tablets, small cubes of brown sugar with a caramel aftertaste perfect with a strong cup of tea. My personal favourite is cranachan, a crumble of oats and whisky, with fresh raspberries and heavy cream. This dessert combines the best of Scottish agricultural and dairy products.
There is one last sugary Scottish product to mention, although its fame precedes it. I’m talking about Irn-Bru, Scotland’s own popular fizzy drink. Invented in 1901, this bright orange, tonic-like beverage functioned as a ‘strengthening’ alternative to beer for steel workers rebuilding Glasgow Central. Known as “Scotland’s second national drink”, its recipe is secret and impossible to reproduce. Nobody seems to agree on what this rust-coloured liquid tastes like, leaving the quarrel open on a blend of orange, bubblegum, and ginger. ‘Phenomenal’, according to their website.
I could go on about Scottish cuisine, but now it’s time for you to join me on a budget-friendly food tour of Edinburgh. Sample some traditional recipes or stop for a wee snack while getting lost in the cobbled streets of this magical city.
“Second Breakfast” in Edinburgh: An Extensive Food Tour of Auld Reekie
Scotland offers plenty of options for foodies and food tourism. The capital does a great job of gathering traditional pubs and restaurants while providing choices from around the world. Depending on the area, you’ll find a lot of alternatives for a quick bite, a proper meal, a nice pint or a dram of the finest whisky. Follow me on this food tour of Edinburgh!
Breakfast and Elevenses
Whether you have a sweet tooth or a propensity for savouries, Edinburgh’s bakeries provide what you need to charge your batteries before intense sightseeing. Among such a wide range of crunchy offers, one laminated dough shines brighter than the others: Lannan’s in Stockbridge. Since Darcie Maher opened her bakery in July 2023, locals and tourists have been queuing from early morning to sellout, excited to try this talented self-taught baker’s exquisite pastries.
It’s quite challenging to suggest what to try, as they developed, proofed, and baked every product with zealous precision and attention to local ingredients and taste combinations. Depending on when you join the queue, try to snatch up at least one item from their wide selection of Viennoiserie. Taste a wee bit of heaven with their croissant, light and fluffy on the inside, crispy and fragrant on the outside, their mouthwatering take on pain Suisse or a warm, spiced staple of breakfast pastries, the sausage roll.
For breakfast and elevenses in other areas, I recommend Twelve Triangles, a scratch bakery with several locations in the city; The Palmerston, a restaurant and morning bakery in the West End where you can enjoy pastries while admiring the quaint interior design, and the hygge atmosphere of Patina, a Scandinavian-inspired bakery in the heart of Edinburgh Park, easy to get to by tram on the way to or from the airport.
Lunch on the go
Despite not being a huge fan of fast food, I must suggest Junk, an award-winning, sophisticated take on international street food. Here I had the pleasure of tasting Scottish-inspired junk food that mesmerises your taste buds. Shoutout to the “Crumpet of Champions” and the “Tattie Dog”: a fuelling lunch alternative for your afternoon hike up Calton Hill and Arthur’s Seat.
If you’re roaming about the Old Town, you’ll spot a hidden gem of Mediterranean cuisine: Greek Artisan Pastries on Bread Street. What better street name for a bakery? Service here is as lovely as their gravieropita, a Cretan cheese pie with crispy breadcrumbs perfect for a swift lunch break on a bench in the Meadows.
In Inverleith, you’ll find Pablo Eggsgobao. As the name suggests, this wee hole-in-the-wall café offers a small selection of brunch bao buns topped with eggs, hash browns and spicy dips. This shop is a stone’s throw from the Botanics, where I suggest you enjoy your takeaway lunchbox.
If you’re in Edinburgh on a Sunday, pop down to Stockbridge Market and choose between the many food stalls. To try something traditional, I recommend a classic Scotch egg or a Scotch pie. You’ll also find local producers selling meat, fish and cheese.
Coffee and Sweets
I am a sucker for coffee and sweets, therefore I’ll list selected establishments where you can enjoy a warm cuppa on a rainy day or a delicious ice cream on those not-too-rare Scottish sunny days. As mentioned, there are plenty of bakeries you should try during your Edinburgh food tour, but according to the season and the weather, you might need something warm or cold to satisfy your cravings.
You’ll find plenty of coffee shops where you can get a caffeine boost before your hikes. Forget about chains and enjoy some incredible speciality coffee at LOWDOWN, cosily nestled in a basement in the New Town. If you’re exploring the Old Town, head towards The Milkman and appreciate the pretty buildings on Cockburn Street. There are two, one at the beginning and another at the top of the slope on the Royal Mile.
Donuts or Ice Cream?
Tucked away in the Upper Bow on Lawnmarket you’ll notice the light blue door of Hideout Café Old Town, where you can rest for delicious refreshments (try their honey cake with your espresso) before climbing the stairs down to the heart of Victoria Street towards the Grassmarket. Here you have to make a tough choice: doughnuts or ice cream?
The answer to this question is fairly simple: why not both? Once again, it depends on the weather and the season. A rainy day in this history-laden part of town asks for a scorching hot black coffee and a toothsome doughnut. The Kilted Donut offers every flavour combination you can conceive: cinnamon sugar is a staple but I recommend the cranachan, a sugar-coated homage to my favourite Scottish dessert.
If the sun shines bright on top of Edinburgh Castle, right beside this shop, you’ll spot Mary’s Milkbar for your ice cream and chocolate cravings. Fancy a walk in the park? Explore the Meadows and reward yourself with a luscious doughnut from Considerit or grab a well-deserved ice cream from Soft Core after a morning stroll through Holyrood Park.
Did you follow the Walk of Leith all the way to the Ocean Terminal? Then sit down and enjoy the delicious smell of freshly roasted coffee at Williams & Johnson Coffee Co. while daydreaming about the stories that the boats moored in the harbour have to tell.
Tea and Pints
Sometimes you want to treat yourself. You’ve been on your feet all day exploring the magical sights Edinburgh offers, climbing up hills and slopes under rain or shine, and your stomach growls for attention. Your mouth is dry, too. In short, you earned yourself something special for tea (Scottish for ‘evening dinner’).
To experience traditional cuisine with a twist in a quirky independent restaurant, head to Makars Mash Bar right by Lawnmarket. Surrounded by tartan pillows, you can taste Scottish classics like Scotch eggs, haggis, neeps and tatties, and juicy Angus beef, with a wide selection of vegetarian alternatives. The highlight lies in their name: choose between 10 different types of mash to accompany your main course. If you want to go the extra (Royal) mile, get a pint of Irn-Bru to wash down this gorgeous meal.
Pubs
Between the Old and New Town, there are plenty of pubs and cocktail bars for a good old pub crawl and, if you’re lucky, unplugged Scottish folk music. Rose Street is a notable alley studded with bars, so go with the flow and enter the one that inspires you the most. In and around these areas, I wouldn’t miss out on Panda & Sons, an award-winning speakeasy-inspired cocktail bar; The Doric, a Scottish gastropub where you are likely to enjoy se live music, and The Bow Bar, where extremely competent staff can advise you on which of their 150+ whisky bottles to try.
An evening stroll through Victoria Street and the Grassmarket down to Haymarket will lead you to a fine-dining yet affordable restaurant, The Palmerston, already mentioned for their morning pastries. It’s a pinnacle of locally sourced produce and seasonal menus with a blend of Scottish and European influences.
Not too far away, enter The Hanging Bat, a unique craft beer bar with an in-house brewery with a warm atmosphere, cosy pub interiors, and an eclectic selection of innovative beers served from batlike wooden pumps. Order the haggis nacho plate to pair with your ale: you’ll thank me later.
Asian flavours
Fancy a filling bowl of soup? Un-Scottish but worth a try, Maki & Ramen’s menu includes quite the variety, from gyoza to sushi to takoyaki. After a hike through the hills, you’ll drool all over their black garlic tonkotsu: delicious. Craving spices instead? Check out Tuk Tuk Indian Street Food in Southside or Sri Lankan street food at KOCHCHI, in St James Quarter’s food court.
Hungry for fish
If you’re strolling around the harbour in Newhaven, you must stop at The Fishmarket Restaurant. This place celebrates the sea and the fishermen’s hard work with mouthwatering recipes that enhance the flavour of Scottish seafood. Savour the freshest haddock, langoustines and Orkney scallops while watching the fishing boats coming and going with Newhaven’s lighthouse in the foreground. Don’t want to sit inside? Grab some scran (food) from their takeaway stand next door and take in the view on the Firth of Forth!
Cocktails and Fun
Fancy a pint or a dram to soothe your thirst after a well-battered fish and chips? Walk one mile towards Leith’s shore and secure a stool by the bar at Teuchters Landing. This dockland pub is a former waiting room for the ferry to Aberdeen, therefore the name teuchter, a derogatory term for a Gaelic-speaking Highlander or someone coming from the North. Here you’ll find an unparalleled selection of whiskies and local Scottish beer.
Try your skills playing a game of hoop of destiny: you have three attempts to throw a hoop and catch the neck of a fine Scottish whisky bottle that you can sample for a fair price. If you lose, you get a shot of “Sheep Dip”, which is not even that bad.
While in the area, you should also walk down to Roseleaf Bar Café, also suggested for breakfast, but this time for their broad drinks menu. Try their teapot cocktails served in the finest china: a great way to finish your evening tea (pun intended) and food tour of Edinburgh.
Time for your own Edinburgh food tour
Whether you want to immerse yourself in the richness of traditional Scottish cuisine, or develop a deeper knowledge about whisky and ale, Edinburgh has something to satisfy your cravings and food preferences, regardless of your budget. As you get lost in the cobbled streets and steep hills, don’t forget to stop and take in the views, snap a picture with one hand and hold on to some sweet or savoury treat with the other. I hope I inspired you to immediately book your next trip to Scotland and Edinburgh to eat and drink your way around it.
Have you had Scottish cuisine before? Did you do a food tour in Edinburgh? Let us know in the comments. Subscribe to our newsletter and benefit from travel guides, sustainable tourism and luxury travel tips, insightful interviews, and inspirational places to visit. One Planet Journey – The World’s First Deep Travel Magazine.
